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Class _. J T±$5^ 

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Copyright N° 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



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TRAINING 



IN 



W^OOD^WORK 



DESIGNED FOR USE IN 
MANUAL TRAINING AND TECHNICAL SCHOOLS 



CONSIS1 !NG OF THREE PARTS 

CAHl'ENTHy, WOOD-TURNING AND PATTEltN WORK 



JAMES M. TATE 

INSTRUCTOR IN CARPFNTRY, WOOD-TURNING, WOOD-CARVING 

Pattern and Foundry practise 



; ' 



COLLEOE OK EnCtINEKKINCt 
ANU THE VLECHANIC ARTS 

University ok IVLinnesota 



KiRST EUITION 



SCHOOL EDUCATION COMPANY 
MINXEAFOLIS, MINNESOTA 



tt 



^a 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

SEP. 20 1902 

COPVnnHT ENTHY 

Cl-ASS (7»-^Xa No 

cowr B. 



COPYRIOHT 1902 

SCHOOL EDUCATIOX COMPANY 






113:^31 



PREFACE. 

The character and object of this book is set forth on its 
title page. It is a manual designed principally for the as- 
sistance of students in wood-work in its various branches as 
well as a help to the instructor. The author has endeavored 
to present the subject in such a manner as to make simple the 
transition from the easier to the more difificult operations. 
The exercises have been selected after an experience in this 
line of instruction, covering a period of twelve 3^ear3 and will 
be found practical in their aJpplication to students in manual 
training in technical and industrial schools. Part first, Car- 
pentr}', is intended to cover from sixty to seventy hours of 
work. Part second, Wood-Turning, not to exceed thirty-five 
hours. Part third, Pattern-Making, fifty or sixty hours, thus 
making a course which will be found to touch the principal 
points in the three branches of wood- work commonly taught in 
manual training schools or schools of technology or engineering. 
It has been the aim of the author to give in this course just 
enough instruction to enable the student to study the problems 
for himself, thereby the better fitting him for the construc- 
tion of patterns for any machine which may be assigned him 
to complete his course in pattern-making, which is changed 
annually. A perusal of this work will disclose many features 
which the author feels sure will commend themselves to in- 
structors and others interested in this department of school 
work. With the hope that these pages may prove a valuable 
aid to students and teachers alike, this work is presented to 
the public. 

James M. Tate. 

University of Minnesota, ^Minneapolis. 



FIRST PART. 
The Care and Use of Tools. 

It is conceded by all practical mechanics that no workman 
can do good work without first being able to put tools in 
proper condition. 

The tools supplied to each student and which he is re- 
quired to keep in order, are as follows : 

I Jointer plane. i Try square. 

I Jack plane. i Bevel square. 

I Block plane. i Hammer. 

4 Paring chisels. i Screw-driver. 

I Marking gauge. i Back saw. 

These tools are to be kept at each desk, and under the 
care of the student assigned to such desk, who will be held 
responsible for them and their condition. There are numerous 
other general tools for use in the shop, which may be ob- 
tained in the tool room when the work assigned to the stu- 
dent may require their use. 

The first operation to be understood by the student, is 
the grinding of a chisel or a plane bit. To do this properly 
requires great care. The tool should be held upon the grind- 
stone at an angle of about 22 degrees for soft pine, or about 
30 degrees for hard wood. It is advisable to hold the tool on 
the grindstone in such a position that the grinding will be in 
a direction toward the cutting edge of the tool, as shown in 




Fig. 1. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



Fig. I., to prevent a feather or wire edge. The tool while 
being- held on the grindstone should be moved slowly, back 
and forth, at right angles to the motion of the stone, to pre- 
vent grooves or uneven places being made on the tool edge. 
When the grinding is completed, the tool should appear as 
shown in Fig. 2 and not as in Fig. 3, which is in poor condi- 



Incorrect 



CoRfiECT 

Fig. 3. Fig. 2. 

tion. The method is applicable to plane irons and chisels 
when the grinding is done free-hand, Init various devices may 
be used to do the work of grinding in a much more accurate 
wav. One verv successful device is shown in Fig. 4, where- 




Fig. 4. 



MANUAL TRAINING 9 

by the tool may be held in a fixed position, and a true bevel 
may be ground on the tool without the operator necessarily 
being- a skilled workman. ]\'Iuch more might be said on this 
subject, but with these few suggestions a beginner may be- 
come proficient with but little practice. After being properly 
ground the tool should be whet upon an oilstone to insure 
a smooth cutting edge, but in no case should a tool be ground 
or whet on the flat side. The proper angle at which the tool 
should be held on the oilstone will be better understood by a 
glance at Fig. 5. 




Fig. 5. 

To remove wire or feather edge, which may be caused by 
too much grinding or whetting, a leather strap should be used, 
after which the tool will have a fine and smooth cutting edge, 
providing the operation has been properly performed. 

The gouge is a chisel curved or concaved so as to form 
a curved cutting edge. Gouges are ground on both inside 
and outside, as the work may require. Inside ground gouges, 
should be ground on the round edge of an emery wheel, but 
great care must be taken not to draw the temper by too fast 
grinding or too great pressure. The outside ground gouge 
may be ground on a common grindstone, but the tool must be 
rocked from side to side in order to bring the convex surface 
in contact with the grindstone. 

Whetting a gouge may be best accomplished with the 
round edge of a slipstone, after which the use of a leather 
strap adds much to the smoothness of the edge and its cutting- 
qualities. 

The rules laid down in the foregoing pages will apply 
to edge tools in general'. After a tool has been used for some 



10 MANUAL TRAINING 

time, and has had the operation of whetting performed on it a 
number of times after grinding, it is necessary to repeat the 
grinding. 

The proper manner in which to use a plane will next be 
considered. The jack plane i's made use of to take ofit" the 
rough outside surface, and the jointer, to true up and smooth 
the surface, thus producing a true plane. The jack plane 
iron should be ground somewhat rounding, so as to appear 
below the bottom of the plane, as shown in Fig. 6. This is 



IL^ 




Fig. 0. 

the proper tool to use in removing a surplus of stock. The 
edge of cutter being curved, causes it to cut more easily, and 
the work may be done more expeditiously and easily for the 
operator. The jointer iron should be nearly straight across 
and only cut a very thin chip. See Fig. 7. The block plane 




\ « 



a 



Fig. 7. 



should be ground and whet in much the same manner as 
the jointer, but the cutting iron is placed in the plane in an 
inverted position, as compared with the jointer or jack plane. 



MANUAL TRAINING n 

See Fig. 8. This is due to the fact that the iron is set at a 
less angle than in the jack or jointer planes. The block plane 







r'ti' 




Fig. 8. 



Is made use of to cut across the end of material as shown in 
Fig. 9. 




Fig. 9. 

The chisel is a tool which can only be used successfully 
by practical experience and instruction. To pare smoothly 
with a chisel, it is necessary to understand the grain of the 
wood to be treated. In order to pare smoothly across the 
grain, the chisel edge should be held at an angle to the fiber 
of the wood, but the motion of the chisel should be directly 
across the grain. To pare end grain, the chisel should be 
given a motion across the end grain as well as a downward 



12 MANUAL TRAINING 

motion, which may be understood better by a glance at Fig. 
10. The chisel most convenient for this work, is ij^2 inches 




^'ig- 1<>. Fig. lOa. 

wide. For mortising and dovetail joints, a bevel edge chisel 
is the best, and the chisel best adapted to the work must be 
selected. For bevel edge chisel see Fig. loa. 

The marking gauge is a tool for marking lines on the 
work, which must be j^arallel with the fiber of the wood. 




In the use of this tool great care must be taken to move the 



MANUAL TRAINING 13 

gauge in the proper direction. The marking point on the 
gauge is Hable to fohow the grain or fiber, and the operator 
should observe the direction in which the grain or fiber runs 
and move his gauge accordingly. Fig. 11 will give an idea 
of the operation as it should be performed. The pressure 
should be applied as shown in diagram. If the gauge is 
moved in the opposite direction, it is plainly to be seen that 
the marking point on the gauge would follow the direction of 
the fiber and the liye would not be parallel to the edge gauged 
from. 

The try square is a tool used for squaring across the work 
and squaring the edges, or to determine when the edges 
are square. The most accurate maimer in which to use the 
try square to determine the correct condition of an edge is 
to place it on the work as shown in Fig. 12. When the square 




is placed on the work in this manner to determine the cor- 
rectness of an edge, pressure should be put on the portion of 
tlie square as shown in the diagram, and with the pressure in 
this direction, move the square slowly downward until the 
blade comes in contact with the work at some point, which 
will determine the exact condition of the edge. The ordin- 
ary way of applying the try square to the work is shown in 



14 



MANUAL TRAINING 



Fig. 13. The advantage of the method as shown in Fig. 12 
is that the long blade of the square in contact with the wide 
surface is a longrer and a more accurate indicator. 




Fig. 13. 

The bevel square is a tool used for the purpose of guiding 
the marker in making lines at an angle or obliquely across 
the work. The blade, being adjustable, may be set at any angle 
from one to ninety degrees. The bevel square is shown in 
position on the work in Fig'. 14. 




Fig. 14-. 

The hammer and screw-driver are tools which need no 
explanation as to their usefulness, but the latest and most im- 
proved patterns, such as the lightning and rapid transit screw- 
drivers, are much more convenient and expeditious. A 
word might be said here as to the manner in which a screw- 
driver should be fitted to the slot in the screw. The beginner 
will ordinarily fit a screw-driver as shown in Fig. 15. This 
is in extremely bad form. The best form is as shown in 
Fig. 16. This condition prevents the screw-driver from slip- 
ping out of the slot in the head of the screw with very little 



MANUAL TRAINING 



15 



do'.viiward pressure, while in the preceding figure it can be 
seen readily, that the driver would require great pressure, 
and, at the same time, be liable to slip out of the slot and 



r^' 



\_y 




Fig. 15. Fig. 16. Fig. 17. 

damage the head of the screw. The correctly fitted screw- 
driver and its position in the slot of the screw are shown in 
Fig. 17. 

The back saw is a small saw, used for small work at the 
bench; such as joints, cutting off, etc., but cannot be used 




Fig. 18. 

for anything larger than two or three inches in thickness, and 
even at this thickness, a larger saw is more applicable. The 
back saw is shown in Fig i8. 

The tools necessary for any purpose outside of those al- 
ready mentioned are listed as general tools, and are kept in 
the tool room and can be obtained upon application to the 
instructor. Following is a partial list of the tools necessary 
for the various exercises, used in the carpentry course : 

Crosscut saw. Rip saw. 

Bit brace. 

Auger bits (various sizes from ^4 ii''- to i in) 



i6 



MANUAL TRAINING 



Rabbet plane. Plougb plane. 

Oilstone. Slipstone. 

Steel square. 
Tlie crosscut saw is used for the purpose of cutting 
across the grain or fiber of the wood. The teeth of a cross- 
cut saw are of the shape shown in Fig. .19. The teeth are 




Fig. 39. 

filed to a lance shape and are inclined somewhat- toward the 
point of the saw. Every alternate tooth is inclined toward 
one side of the blade, so as to cut^an opening slightly wider 
than the tliickness of the blade. This is called set and pro- 
vides clearance for the saw in passing through the wood. 
The rip saw is used for cutting parallel with the grain and 
has a differently formed tooth, see Fig. 20, and is filed di- 




Fig. 20. 

rectly across. The proper angle or rake for teeth of a rip 
saw may be determined by placing the try square on the 
points of the teeth, as shown in Fig. 21. The front side of 
the tooth should be at a right angle to the line of the points 
of the teeth ; while in the crosscut, the test may be made 
by placing the try square on the back of the saw, as shown in 



MANUAL TRAINING 



17 



Fig 22. The front or cutting edge of the tooth should be 
parallel to the blade of the square. This rule is the best for 



rJM\f\ 




r\^-JM'x^.J\MVMM\KKK^N^s^ 



Fig. 21. 

crosscut saws for general use, but gives somewhat more 
rake or angle than is suggested by some writers on the sub- 







0® 






Wl/M/ 






•^^^^^^^^-^^^Mn/^mvn 


^VHl 



Fig. 22. 

ject. It is evident that the more rake the saw tooth has, 



i8 



MANUAL TRAINING 



the more freely it will cut, but with too much rake or angle 
it will not cut so smoothly. This rule, however, is one which 
meets with the approval of practical workmen, in general. 
The bit brace will need no further explanation than is af- 
forded by Fig 23. This tool is used to drive the auger or 




Fig. 23. 



drill by hand, and to hold it in a fixed position while perform- 
ing the work of boring. The various kinds of bits, made use 
of in wood working, are the 

Auger bit. Expansive bit. 

Wood drill. Bottom bit. 

Center bit. 
The various kinds are shown in Fig. 24. 




MANUAL TRAINING 



19 




Bottom bit. 
Fig. 24 Continued. 

The rabbet plane is shown in Fig. 25, and is used to plane 
out by hand such angles as are shown in Fig. 26. This plane 




Fig. 25 

is adapted to cutting parallel with the grain, "but for cutting 



^ 



y /^' 




Fig. 26. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



across the grain the filHster plane is best. This plane differs 
from the rabbet plane somewhat. The cutter is not set at a 
right angle to the plane, but is arranged obliquely across 
the bottom of the plane, thereby giving a skew cut. This is 
necessary to insure a smooth surface in cutting across the 
grain. It also has a spur or cutter projecting below the bot- 




FiS 



torn and in advance of the cutter proper and cutting in a par- 
allel line to the motion of the plane to cut the fiber of the cross- 
grain. The fillister is shown in Fig. 27. A very conven- 








Fie. 2> 



lit;. _ ->. 

lent tool is the combination rabbet and fillister. This tool 
will perform the work of both. The plough plane is shown 



Fig. 29. 

in Fig. 28 and is used in planing a groove or double angle, as 
shown in Fig. 29. This plane has cutters of various widths^ 



MANUAL TRAINING 21 

which may be adjusted in the plane to accommodate the work 
to be done. It also has a depth gauge in order to make the 
groove the proper depth. This gauge may be set and, when 
the limit has been reached, the plane will no longer cut. 

The oilstone and slipstone will need no explanation as 
to their usefulness, after what has been said in regard to 
edged tools. The best quality of stones for the most ex- 
peditious sharpening is the red India oilstone, but for the 
finer and more smoothly cutting edge the Arkansas is the 
best. 

The steel square is next to be considered. This tool is 
deserving of more than it is possible to find room for in 
this work ; but an explanation of what is marked on the 
square, and what should be understood by every student will 
be all that will be spoken of in this connection. The square 
recommended and the one adopted for general use, is marked 
No. 100. This tool is very useful to the house carpenter, the 
stair builder, and the millwright; but it is almost indispens- 
able to any mechanic, and should be understood by engineers 
in general. The square is shown in Figs. 30 and 31. The 
figures and graduations on the face of the square pertain to 
lumber measure, brace measure and a scale for laying out 
timbers to be made octagonal in form. 

We will first consider lumber measure as shown in Fig. 
30. A knowledge of its use may be obtained by a few mo- 
ments' study and when once understood, is always at hand 
and ready for use. The following explanations are deemed 
sufficiently clear to give the student a full knowledge of the 
rule. 

By examining Fig. 30, we will find under the figure 12 
on the outer edge of the blade, the length of the board or 
plank to be measured, and the answer, in feet and inches, is 
found under the inches in width that the board or plank 
measures. For example ; take a board , 9 feet long and 5 
inches wide, then under the figure 12 on the second line will 
In case the plane is placed on the work,' as shown in Fig. 38, 



22 MANUAL TRAINING 

be found the figure 9 which is the length of the board ; then 
run along the line to the figure directly under the 5 inches, 
(the width of the board) and you will find 3 feet and 9 inches, 
which is the correct answer in board measure. 




Fig. 31. Pig- 3"- 

If the material is two inches thick this result may be 
multiplied by two, and if three or four inches thick, multiply 
accordingly to get the proper solution in board or lumber 
measure. 



MANUAL TRAINING 23 

If the material to be measured is longer than any figure 
shown on the square, it can be measured by dividing the 
length, and adding the results. The rule is calculated, as 
its name implies, for board measure or lumber one inch in 
thickness. It may be used in measuring timbers by multi- 
plying the superficial measure of one surface by the thick- 
ness of the timber in inches. To illustrate ; suppose a timber 
which is 10 inches by 14 inches by 25 feet is to be measured; 
for the length take 12 ft. and 13 ft.; for the width we will 
take 10 inches, and multiply the result by 14; by the rule 
a board 12 ft. long and 10 inches wide contains 10 ft. ; and 
a board 13 ft. long and 10 inches wide contains 10 ft. 10 in.; 
therefore, a board 25 ft. long, arid 10 in. wide, must contain 
20 ft. 10 in. 

In the timber measured, we have what is equivalent to 
14 such boards and we multiply 20 ft. 10 in. by 14, which 
gives us 291 ft. 8 inches, the correct answer. 

The brace rule is always placed along the center line of 
the tongue of the square, as shown in Fig. 30. This rule 
is easily understood. The figures on the left of the line rep- 
resent the run or the length of two sides of a right angle, 
while the figures on the right represent the exact length of 
the third side of a right-angled triangle in inches, tenths and 
hundredths; — or, to put it in another way, the equal numbers 
placed one above the other, may be considered as representing 
the sides of a square and the third number to the right, the 
length of the diagonal of that square. The exact length of a 
brace, from point to point, having a rise of 33 inches and a 
run of 33 inches would be 46.67 inches. The brace rule varies 
somev/hat in the matter of the runs shown on different squares ; 
some squares give a few brace lengths of which the runs upon 
the beam and the rise on the post are unequal. The rise and 
run of a brace are shown in Fig. 32. 

The octagonal scale is shown on the central division of 
the opposite side of the tongue from the brace rule and its use 
is as follows : Suppose a stick of timber ten inches square is 



24 



MANUAL TRAINING 



to be made octagonal ; make a center line which will be five 
inches from each edge ; set a pair of compasses, putting one 
point on any of -the main divisions shown on the square in 
this scale, and the other point on the tenth subdivision; — this 




Fig. 32. 

division marked off from the center line on each surface will 
give the points for the gauge line. Gauge from the corners 
both ways, and the lines for making the timber octagonal in 
its section are obtained. Always take the number of spaces 
or subdivisions in the scale to correspond with the number of 
inches square from the center line. Thus if a stick is 12 inches 
square, take 12 spaces on the scale; if only 6 inches square, 
take 6 spaces. The rule always to be observed is as follows: 
Set off from each side of the center line as many spaces by 
the octagon scale as the timber is inches square. For timbers 
larger in size than the number of divisions in the scale, the 
measurements by it may be doubled or multiplied as occasion 
may require. 'Fig. 33 shows an end of a timber, laid out by 
the above scale. 

This scale is a very useful one, but a more convenient and 
simple rule is the following: To lay ofif a square timber to 
be made octagonal, place the square on one flat surface of the 



MANUAL TRAINING 



25 



timber in the manner shown in Fig". 34, take the scratch awl 
or pencil, and mark a point against the edge of the blade on 






Fis. 33. 

the surface of the timber at the seventh inch mark, and from 
the adjacent corner of the timber set the marking gauge to the 




point marked at seven. From each corner gauge lines on 
each surface of the timber parallel with its length and when the 
corners of the timber have been worked ofif to the lines drawn, 
it will be octagonal in section. 

The diagonal scale is on the tongue of the square at its 
junction with the blade as shown in Fig. 35 and is used for 
getting measurements to i/ioo inch. The lengths of the 
lines between the diagonal and the perpendicular are marked 
on the latter; primary divisions are tenths and the junction 



26 



MANUAL TRAINING 



of the diag-onal lines with the longitudinal parallel lines enables 

the operator to obtain divi- 

isions of one hundredth parts 
of an inch. For example, if 
we wish to obtain twenty- 
four one hundredths, we 
place compasses on the dots 
on the fourth parallel line 
which covers two primary 
divisions and a fraction or 
four-tenths of the third pri- 
mary division, which added 
together make twenty-four 
hundredths of an inch. 

This scale is very easily un- 
derstood and needs no further 
explanation. All other scales on the square are simply inches 
and divisions of an inch. There are many problems which can 
be worked out on the steel square, but those explained above 
are marked on the square aside from the inches and divisions 
of an inch, and are considered most important. 



Fig. 35. 



CARPENTRY. 
Exercise No. i, 



^iJ-t-^'-^i- 



IL 



Fig. 36. 

Exercise No. i, is shown in Fig-. 36 and consists of a par- 
allel piece two feet eig-ht inches in leno-th, four inches in width, 
and one inch in thickness. The work should be conducted 
in the following' manner. Place the material on the work 
bench and against the bench stop. Plane the rough surface 
of one side with the jack plane, after which, take the jointer 
or fore plane and true the surface up, making- it a true plane. 




Fig. 3: 



This may be accomplished more expeditiously by observing the 
following rules. Move the plane on a line parallel with 
the length as shown in Fig. ^7 and not as shown in Fig. 38. 



28 



MANUAL TRAINING 



the result will be invariably a warped or twisted surface. An- 
other point to be given consideration is the pressure downward 




Fig. 38. 



on the plane while the operator is moving it ahead in a line 
with the work upon starting the plane to cut as shown in 
Fig. 39. The downward pressure should be applied on the 



^ 



^a 



Fig. 39. 



front handle of the plane, and, as the tool is moved along- 
toward the other end of the work, the pressure should be only 
on the rear handle, as shown in Fig. 40. No pressure should 



^= 




Fig. 4.0. 



be applied to the end of the plane which overhangs the end of 
the piece of work ; for when pressure is put on the overhang- 



MANUAL TRAINING 



29 



ing end the result cannot be otherwise than a rounded sur- 
face, as shown in Fig. 41, so that while the operator 
is striving to get a true surface, he is making it more untrue. 




Fig. 41. 

A beginner is very liable to make the surface warped or 
winding, and, his eye being untrained in the work, he finds it 
hard to decide when the surface is correct. In order to 
prove a surface use the steel square as a straight edge. Place 
it parallel with edge of the work, to decide when work is 
straight ; and place it diagonally across to determine as to a 
warped surface, as in Fig. 42. If the square fits in all direc- 
tions the surface is true. , 




Fig. 42. 



The parallel rules or two steel squares may be used to prove 
the surface in the manner shown in Fig. 43. When placed in 
this position, look across the top o.f the rules lengthwise with 
the work, and if the top lines of the rules appear parallel there 
is no warp in the surface.' To prove it by the eye requires 
training. A skilled workman can decide at a glance by look- 
ing along the surface lengthwise, and raising the end nearest 



30 



MANUAL TRAINING 



the eye until the top surface disappears, and b\ comparing the 
Hnes of the ends as shown in the following sketch, No. 44. If 




Fig 4-3. 

the lines of the two ends appear parallel, there is no wind or 
warp in the surface. After the piece is finished, so far as 



Fig. 44. 



planing is concerned, the numbered surfaces will appear as 
shown in Fig. 45. 




MANUAL TRAINING 



31 



After the first surface has been made perfect, it should 
be marked No. i. After this has been done, an adjacent edge 
should be made straight and square with No. i. This surface 
should be marked No. 2. The corner or angle formed by 
surfaces Nos. i and 2 constitutes the working line or edge 
from which all gauging and squaring should be done. With 
the marking gauge make a line on surface No. i four inches 
from the working edge, using that edge as a guide for the 
gauge. Place surface No. 2 downward on the bench and 
plane the third surface down to the line, at the same time 
making it square with surface No. i, which will make the 
piece four inches in width. This surface should be marked 
No. 3. Both Nos. 2 and 3 must be squared to No. i. The 
gauge should next be set to the thickness of the required piece, 
and a line be drawn on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3, using surface 
No. I as a guide for the marking gauge. Place surface No. 
I downward and proceed to plane the fourth surface to the 
lines drawn on Nos. 2 and 3 ; this may be done more easily by 
planing on one edge as shown in Fig. 46 and, when the line has 



^ 







1 
^ 











Fig. 46. 



FipT. 4.7. 



Fig. +> 



been reached on this edge, transfer to the other edge and plane 
to the line on this edge (see Fig. 47) which will leave the 
surface high in the center as shown in Fig. 48. Next trans- 
fer the plane to a central position and plane the center down 
to a straight line across, planing nothing ofif at the extreme 
edges which may be proven by applying the try square as 
shown in Fig. 49. This surface is to be marked No. 4. If 
the work has been done properly, the opposite surfaces of the 
piece will be parallel. 



32 



MANUAL TRAINING 



To lay out the lines on the piece as shown in Fig. ^6 it 
is best to proceed in the following manner. Place the try 
square across surface No. i near the end, with the body of 
the square against surface No. 2, and with the body of the 



o o 





Fig. 49. 

square held firmly against this edge, mark with the point of 
a knife a line across surface No. i and exactly parallel to the 
blade or tongue of the sq,uare. This is the end line from which 
all measurements running lengthwise with the piece must be 
taken. Six cross lines are drawn across in the same manner. 
The distances from the end line — 



I m 




2 in 




2^ 


in. 


3^ 


in. 


3/3 


in. 



m. 



The other end line is then drawn two feet from the eight 
inch cross line. These lines are then to be squared around the 
piece always placing the try square on surface Nos, i or 2. 
After the cross lines are made the marking gauge must be 
used in marking lines on surfaces Nos. i and 4 lengthwise of 
the piece one-half inch apart from the eight inch line to the 



MANUAL TRAINING 



33 



last end, using surface No. 2 as a guide for the marking 
gauge. The cross Hues are to serve as a guide in sawing for 
the crosscut saw across, and the longitudinal lines as a guide 
for the rip saw. The ends should be sawed oft' next, being care- 
ful to have the saw cut come outside the line, and not over its 
center. Otherwise, the piece will be shorter than the required 
length. Next cut to the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th lines in the 
same manner as the first, keeping on the same side of each. Do 
not cut through the piece but leave one-eighth of an inch in 
thickness uncut. The rip sawing is next to be done, sawing on 





Fig. 50. 

the same side of each line, the saw cutting only to the center of 
the line. The rip saw should be used at about the angle shown 
in Fig. 50 and not as in Fig. 51. It may be seen readily that the 




saw is cutting through less material in Fig. 50 than in Fig. 51, 
that is to say, when a piece one inch in thickness is being ripped 
if the saw is held at an angle of 75 degrees the line of contact 



34 



MANUAL TRAINING 



of teeth would be about one and one-fourth inches, and in 
case it is held at 35 degrees it would be cutting through 
about two and one-half inches. Great care should be taken 
to keep the sides of the saw at a right angle to the surface of 
the piece, so as to follow the line on the bottom or fourtli 
surface, the same as on the top side or surface No. i. 



EXERCISE NO. 2. 



Exercise No. 2 is shown in Fig. 52 and is used on the bench 
to place the work on while sawing small pieces and is called 
a bench hook. In this exercise the use of the planes, try square, 



, ' " I — ' 



I 



/2 



B 



Fig. 52. 

knife, marking gauge, saws, and the paring chisel is necessary. 
The work should proceed in the following order: plane up 
a piece 1234 inches long, four inches wide and one and three- 
fourths inches thick, in the same manner as in exercise 
No. I, numbering the surfaces in the same order. After this 
is done, draw a line with a knife near the end and measure 
with the rule from this line to the try square two inches and 
draw another line across ; then another ten inches from the first 



MANUAL TRAINING -35 

line and next twelve inches from the first line, this will be 
the end line. Square all these lines around the piece. Set the 
marking gauge at y$, inch and gauge a line on each edge of 
the piece, using surface No. i as a guide for the gauge. Next 
set the gauge at iV^ inches and draw a line on each edge from 
surface No. i. Fig. 53 shows the material to cut away. Next 



V//////////////////A 



V/////////////////A 



A 



FiR. 53. 

use the rip saw and cut 1/16 inch away from the line 
so as to leave material for dressing smooth with the chisel. 
Rip down near to the 10 inch line on either side, keeping at 
the same distance from the line on each edge. Next take the 
back saw, and cut in the same manner as you have done the 
ripping 1/16 inch from the line. Cut ofif the ends with the 
back saw exactly to the line. The lYi inch paring chisel is next 
used to true and smooth the sawed surfaces to the lines. The end 
grain should be pared first, following the line on the top sur- 
face with the chisel, and the short lines on the edges after- 
ward. Lastly cut down the middle of the surface. For the 
flat surface place the piece on edge, and, with the chisel held 
in one hand, and the work held in position with the other, 
pare to the line and across the grain, leaving the flat surface 
still high in the center. After this, place the piece in the vise 
and pare the central portion down to a straight line across. 
Do not pare lengthwise with the grain of the wood. Test the 
surface with the try square. This being the first exercise where 
the paring chisel is necessary, great care should be taken not 
to, cut too deep, but while paring across put considerable down- 
ward pressure on the chisel with one hand, and do not allow 
the handle to rise or the cutting edge to dig in. If this occurs 
the piece will be spoiled. 



36 



MANUAL TRAINING- 



EXERCISE NO. 3. 

Exercise No. 3 is shown in Fig. 54 and should be done 
in the following manner. Plane out a piece of material 13 
inches long and i^ inches square, numbering the surfaces as 








+. 


z 


1 = , 






Fig. 54-. 

before. With the try square and knife draw a line at the end, 
and with the rule measure off the length of the splice from 
the first line to the try square and draw the other line. Do 
the same on the other end and square all lines around the 
piece. 

Set the marking gauge at 13/16 inch and gauge a line 
on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3, using surface Xo. i as a guide for 
the gauge. Fig. 55 shows the portion to be cut away. The 




Fig ."5. 



saw is now to be used to cut out the shaded portion. Cut 
away from the line 1/16 inch and pare down to the line with 
the paring chisel and make all surfaces smooth. After this 
is done, the piece must be taken to the instructor, to be cut 



MANUAL TRAINING 2,1 

into two parts and put together. The marking of the joint will 
be according to its correctness. After the workmanship has 
been considered by the instructor, the two pieces must be fas- 
tened together with a wooden pin 5/16 inch round at the 
center of the I'oint. 



EXERCISE NO. 4. 

Exercise No. 4 is a right angle joint. See Fig. 56. The 
work must be done in the following manner. A piece of mate- 
rial II inches long is to be planed out \y^ inches square, 




' — 'i — 1 










*f 


,r. 






l—U-J 


— a--' 



rig. 56. 

the surfaces to be numbered as in the preceding exercises. 
Place the try square across the piece i j^ inches or more from 
the end, with the body of the square held against surface No. i 
or 2. Draw a line with the knife. Square this line around the 
piece. Treat the other end in the same manner. Next set 
the marking gauge to one-half the thickness or 13-16 inch 
and gauge a line, using surface No. i as guide for the gauge, 



38 



MANUAL TRAINING 



on Nos. 2 and 3 lengthwise of the piece extendino- from 
each end to the cross Hnes drawn. Next saw out the shaded 
portion, as shown in Fig. 57. Saw i-t6 inch from the Hne 




v/////y 



Fig. 57. 

as before and pare to the hne with the paring chisel After 
this the piece is to be submitted to the instructor to be sawed 
in two pieces and a mark given on workmanship. After this 
the two pieces are to be put together at right angles and a 
5-16 inch pin put throug-h the joint to hold them in place. The 
ends projecting at the angle of the joint may be dressed down 
to an even surface,, the length of the ends being measured off 
from the angle of the joint. Draw a line around and saw the 
ends to the line using the back saw. No dressing of the out- 
side surfaces is to be done after the work has been marked 
out and joined together. All surfaces should be straight and 
true on the joint if the work has been i)roperly performed. 



EXERCTSF. XO. 5- 

Exercise No. 5 is a joint similar to No. 4. but the angle of 




Fig. 58. 

the joint is 45 degrees as shown in Fig. 58. The work of 



MANUAL TRAINING 39 

planing out the piece i;/8 inches square and 14 inches long- 
is to be done in the same order as in the preceding exercise. 
The bevel square is to be set at an angle of 45 degrees, which 
may be done easily by placing t'le bodv of the bevel against 
the edge of the blade of the steel square with the tongue of 
the bevel e.Ktending across the angle of the square as shown 
in Fig. 59. Adjust the tongue of the bevel so that one edge of 




the tongue is the same number of inches from the angle of 
the square on either edge. Next place the lievel on the piece 
to be laid out, with body of the bevel held firmly against sur- 
face No. 2 and the blade or tongue of the bevel back about 
2J/2 inches from the end. Draw a knife mark along the blade 
of the bevel on surface No. i. Repeat this operation on the 
opposite end, drawing the line on surface No. 4. Square the 
lines across surfaces Nos. 2 and 3 and at termination of the 
oblique lines across surfaces Nos. i and 4. Next set the mark- 
ing gauge at 13-16 inch and mark lines lengthwise of piece 
from the ends past the cross lines on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3, 
using surface No. i as a guide for the gauge. Next saw 
outside the lines and pare the surfaces to the lines and in 
a straight line across. When this has been done, the piece 
will appear as shown in Figs. 60 and 61. The work is now 



Fig. 60. 



40 



MANUAL TRAINING 



to be cut into two parts at the center by the instructor and 
marked according to workmanship. The pieces are then placed 
in position and bored and pinned together with a 5-16 inch 



Fig. 61. 



round pin, to hold them in place. The pin should be placed 
on the center line of the angle and on a line at a right angle 
to the shoulder of the joint, as shown in Fig. 62. 




Fig. 62. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



41 



EXERCISE NO. 6. 

Exercise No. 6 is a model of a timber splice, and is shown 
in Fig. 63. This joint is adapted for use where the stress is 
in two directions only. The work should be done in the fol- 




trt 



Fig. 63. 

lowing manner. First plane a piece to the dimensions given, 
following the rules as in Exercise No. i. With the try square 
and knife draw a line across the end of the piece. With the try 
square on surface No. i or 2, square this line around the 
piece. With end of the rule placed against the tongue of the 
square move the try square back along the working edge until 
the y2 inch mark on the rule meets the end line first drawn. 
With the knife mark a line here. Then move the square back 
imtil the 3 V2 inch mark on the rule meets the first line. Draw 
a line at this point. Next move the square back until the 
4 inch mark on the rule is reached, and draw the last line. 
Square all these lines around the piece and repeat the opera- 
tion on the other end of the piece, beginning with the end line 
as before. Next set the marking gauge at 13-32 inch and 



42 MANUAL TRAINING 

gauge a line on surfaces Xos. 2 and 3 as shown at A, Fig. 
64. Reset the gauge at 13-16 inch and gauge a Hue on 
the same surfaces as at B. Again, re-set the gauge at 1 'J-Z2 



B 

C P 




Fig. (34. 

inches and gauge lines on the same surfaces as at C. Next saw 
out the shaded portion of the piece, sawing near to but not 
on the Hne and pare to the hues w'ith the paring chisel, being 
careful not to pare below the center of any line. After, this 
has been done the piece is to be cut into two parts by the 
instructor and a mark given according to the correctness of 
the wf)rk. If ihe joint is well made and is a good fit. the work- 
is to be pressed firmly together endwise in the vise and the 
key way laid out on each side. Work out the key way with 
the chisel, put the work together again and put the key in 
l)lace. After the joint has been keyed up. t1"'e measurements 
from the ends of the joint to the end line are made and squared 
around the piece and the ends sawed off to the lines. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



43 



EXERCISE NO. "J. 

Exercise No. 7 is a model of a pump rod joint and is 
shown in Fig. 65. This exercise appears very simple but the 
work must be done with g-reat care and accuracy, to produce 



T 




T 




'■ 


■*. 




- 








1 


r 






Wta 
















>'¥■, 








— 7 ■ 





. 






51 


• Z ' 


It i li J 


■ Z ' 





Hig. 65. 

a good joint. Proceed in the following manner: Plane a 
piece to dimensions given, observing rules as in Exercise No. 
I. Lay out end line and measure from that for the next line, 
as explained in Exercise No. 6. ^Measure from the first line 
for the distance to the third line. Square these lines around 
the jiiece, _and repeat this operation on the opposite end of 
the piece. Next set the marking gauge at ^ inch and 
mark line as designated by A in Fig. 66 gauging from surface 





Fis. 66. 

No. I and marking the line on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3. Re-set 
the gauge at i inch and gauge a line from surface No. i on 
Nos. 2 and 3 as at B. Next saw out shaded portion and pare 



44 



MANUAL TRAINING 



to the lines, with paring chisel as clone in the preceding exer- 
cise, after which the piece must be cut into two parts by the 
instructor, and placed together. If the work has been prop- 
erly and accurately done, the joint will remain in its position 
without further fastening. 



EXERCISE NO. 8. 

Exercise No. 8 is a model of a joint, designed to withstand 
stress or strain in four directions, and is shown in Figs. 67 
and 68. This ioint cannot be made to fit and at the same time 




Fig:. 67. 

have correct dimensions without observing the following 
rules : Plane a piece of the required length and correct size, 



^ 



I* 



I ' 
_Ll_ 



Fig. 68. 



making opposite surfaces exactly parallel, and angles square, 
all surfaces being squared to No. i. Begin by laying out an 
end line as in Exercise No. 6, getting correct measurements 
from the first or end line for all cross lines. Square these 
lines around on all sides and repeat the operation on opposite 
end of piece. Next set the marking gauge at ^s of an inch 



MANUAL TRAINING 



45 



and g'aiige lines as shown at A in Fig. 69, using surface No. i 
as a guide and marking the Hnes on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3. 
Next re-set the gauge at one inch and mark Hnes on same sur- 





Fig. 69. 

faces from No. i as shown at B. Then set the bevel at the 
second line on surface No. i and the tongue of the bevel inter- 
secting the junction of the cross line No. i and the line drawn 
parallel to and one inch from surface No. i. Draw a line 
along the tongue of the bevel as shown at C in Fig. 69. With 
this setting of the bevel all the oblique lines on surfaces Nos. 
2 and 3 may be drawn, the body of the bevel resting on sur- 
face No. I. The marking gauge is next set at Yi inch and 
lines drawn on surfaces Nos. i and 4, using surface No. 2 as 
a guide. See A in b^ig. 70. The gauge is next set at i ^^ 




iMK. 70. 

inches and lines drawn parallel to lines A using surface No. 2 
as a guide. These lines in conjunction with the cross lines 
form the outline of the mortise and tenon at the end of the 
joint. See B-B in Fig. 70. The shaded portion is next to 
be sawed and pared out as in Figs. 69 and 70, when the piece 
is to be submitted to the instructor for inspection and to be cut 
into two parts and put together. After this is done the key 
is to be put in, the end lines are to be marked off, and the 
ends of the piece cut off' to the lines, with the back saw, when 
the work is finished. 



46 



MANUAL TRAINING 



EXERCISE NO. Q. 

Exercise Xo. 9 consists of a simple mortise and tenon jo^nt 
as shown in Fig^. 71 and 72. The work is to he done in th.*^ 
following- manner: l-"irst plane a piece i^s inches square, of 
-'* 1 . /l- 



-2-ft- 



± 



± 



-i*- 




FifT. 71. 

required length, observing" the rules as specified in Exercise 
No. 1. W ith. the knife and tr\' srjuare lay out lines across 
the piece as shown at A in Fig. 73. squaring the lines across 
from surface Xo. i. Square these lines around the piece. 






mz^ 



Fig. 73. 

Next set the marking gauge at yi inch and gauge lines on 
surfaces Nos. 2 and 3 using surface Xo. i as a guide for the 
gauge. See B in Fig. J},. Xext set the marking gauge at 
13/S inches and mark lines parallel to lines B as shown 
at C. Take the back saw and saw out and pare the shaded 



MANUAL TRAINING 



47 



portion to the lines A, B, and C. This forms the tenon. 
Next take a hrace and a lA inch auger bit. and bore holes half 
through the piece on 'jurfaces Xos. 2 and 3 on shaded por- 
tion, see Fig. y^)- \\'ith the ilA inch and ^ inch paring 
chisels, pare to the lines of mortise, after which the work 
must be inspected by tlie instructor and cut into two parts, and 
put together, forming the mortise and tenon, shown in Figs. 
Nos. 71 and y2. 



KXEKcisi': X(j. 10. 

Exercise No. 10 consists of a double mortise and tenon 
joint as shown in Figs. 74 and 75. The work in this exercise 
is practically the same as in Exercise No. 9, but the mortise 

—ii 




li 



. J i fX^ X f I i- 



Fii 



and lenon are double. The lines must be laid out in the same 
manner and from the working surfaces, but the setting of the 
gauge is for different dimensions. The cross lines are the 
same and are squared around the piece. The setting of the 
gauge is as follows: 5-16 inch, 11-16 inch, 15-16 inch aiid 



48 



MANUAL TRAINING 



I 5-16 inches, as shown in Fig. 76, at A, B, C, and D, the gaug- 
ing being from surface No. i on Nos. 2 and 3. Next remove 



m^ W/ 



y////////. 





Fig. 76. 



with the saw, auger bit, and paring chisels, the shaded portions, 
when the work is ready to be inspected, sawed into two parts, 
and put together by the instructor. 



EXERCISE NO. II. 

Exercise No. 1 1 is a dove-tail mortise and tenon joint 
and is shown in Figs. 77 and 78. The work should be done 
as follows : Plane a piece as described in Exercise No i to 




Fig. 77. Fig. 78. 

dimensions ^4 inch by 3;}4 inches by 7 inches. With the block 
plane, square the ends to surfaces Nos. i and 2. Place the 
try square on surface No. 2 with the blade or tongue extending 
across No. i, 34 inch from the end. Draw a line and square 
it around the piece. Repeat this on the opposite end. Next set 
the marking gauge at 5-16 of an inch and mark a line on sur- 
face No. 4, at one end of the piece, from the end to the ^ inch 
line, ufing surface No. 2 as a guide. Next set the marking gauge 
at J4 inch and gauge a line on surface No. i, from the end to 



MANUAL TRAINING 



49 



the }i inch line. Without re-settinq- the gaus^e, mark a Hue 
on the opposite end on the end grain, using surface No. 2 as 
a guide. See Fig. 79 at A. Next set the gauge at >)4 inch 
and mark Hues as at B. Re-set the gauge at i^4 inches, and 
mark Hues at C. Set tiie gauge at 2 inches and mark Hues at D. 



-b 

_ c 

-d 

_6 

-f 



Fig. 79. 

Set the gauge next at 3 inches and mark Unes at E. Re-set 
the gauge at 3J4 inches and mark hues at F. Next place the 
hevel square across the end on surface No. i, the tongue of 
the bevel resting on the end grain. Adjust the tongue so as 
to meet the first lines drawn on surfaces Nos. i and 4. Draw 
a line here with the knife. This setting of the bevel is to 
serve for all the other oblique lines of the mortise and tenon. 
The bevel is next to be placed so as to meet all the gauge lines 
drawn on either end and lines are to be marked with the knife. 
Next the try square may be placed on the end and lines marked 
with the knife parallel to the first gauge line and intersecting 
the oblique lines on the end grain. The piece will then appear 



W7 7T / 



^777777 



7 7 7 777 



wm w^ 



mm 




Fi>j. 80. 

as in Fig. 80. The shaded portion is to be cut away. Pare 



50 MANUAL TRAINING 

strictly to the center of all lines. Then the piece is to be sub- 
mitted to the instructor for his inspection, and to be cut into 
two parts and put together. 



EXERCISE NO. 12. 



Exercise Xo. 12 is a dove-tail mortise and tenon joint 
ordinarily used by cabinet makers on front corners of drawers, 
and is called a drawer dove-tail joint and is shown in Fig". 
81. The manner of ])rocedurc in this exercise is as follows: 
Plane two pieces of material for the joint, one piece to be 




Fig. 81. 

fi inch bv 3^ inches by 4 inches. The other to be 5^ inch 
by 35^ inches by 4 inches. Xext scjuare one end of each 
piece and on the piece 3^^ "''^1'' thick mark a line on sur- 
face No. 2 as a guide. Square this line around the piece. 
Xext set the marking gauge at 5-16 inch and gaugfe a 
line on the end grain of the squared end, using surface No. 2 
as a guide. Then set the gauge at 15-16 of an inch and gauge 
a line on the same surface with Xo. 2 as guide. Re-set to i- 
9-16 inches and gauge another line on the same surface. Next 



MANUAL TRAINING 51 

set the .e^auge at 2 3-16 inches and mark another hne from 
surface No. 2. Re-set at 2 13-16 inches, and mark another 
Hne on the same surface. With anotlicr setting of the gauge 
at 3 7-16 inches, gauge tlic last line. Then set at J/j inch and 
using surface No. 2 as a guide, with the marking gauge 
mark a fine line on surface No. i, crossing the first line drawn 
with the trv sc[uare and knife. Next place the bevel square 
on the end grain and adjust the tongue of the bevel so as to 
intersect the first line drawn on the end grain and the fine line 
on No. 1. This adjustment of the bevel will serve as a guide 
to mark all the lines on surfaces Nos. i and 4. starting from 
the lines on the end grain and meeting lines squared around 
the piece from No. 2, after which the piece will appear as in 
Fig. 84. Next saw and pare out with the chisel the shaded 




Fig. 84.. 



portion and keep well to tlie center of the lines in paring. 
Next square a line on the ^ inch thick piece on surface No. 
I from No. 2. and Yi inch from the trued end. Next place 
the •)4 inch piece in a firm position with the dressed end up 
and place the Yi inch piece on the end grain, with the Y^ \\'\<z\\ 
line even with surface No. i of the piece as shown in Fig. 85. 
Flold firmly in this position and with a knife mark outlines of 



52 MANUAL TRAINING 

the dove-tails on the end grain. Next square the Hnes on No. 



l^\^ 




t—^t'-i-\ 



I 



:\ 



'jun 



Fig. 85. 

I with the try square and knife, from the hues on the end 
to the 3-4 inch Hne, when the piece will appear as in Figs. 
86 and S/. The shaded portion is next to be cut away with 




Fig. 86. 



Fig. 8-; 



the paring chisels and tools and put together by the instructor 



MANUAL TRAINING 



53 



and if the work has been properly executed a good joint will 
be the result, and all outside surfaces will be tangent, and the 
joint will appear as in Fig. 8i. 



EXERCISE xo. 13. 



Exercise No. 13 is a framed panel as shown in Fig. 90. 
The construction is to proceed in the following manner : Plane 
two pieces, ^4 inch by i}i inches by 22 inches, proceeding 



-f-fr 



i^t^t 



T±? 



il^ 



Fig. 90. 

in the same manner as in Exercise No. i. Next place surfaces 
No. 4 of these pieces together and surface No. 2 of each piece 
uppermost, and place them in the vice together. Square lines 
across the pieces while in this position, indicating the cross lines 
of the mortises and the shoulders of the tenons as shown at 
A in Fig. 91. Square all these lines around the pieces. Next 
set the marking gauge at ?^4 "i^k and gauge B on both pieces 
on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3, using surfaces No. i as guides for 
the gauge. Re-set the gauge at J/^ inch and gauge lines on 
the same surfaces from No. i and parallel to the first gauge 
lines drawn. The shaded portions are now to be cut away 
with the saw and paring chisel on the tenons, and with the 
auger bit and mortising chisel in the mortises. Cut to the lines 
on surfaces Nos. 2 and 3 ; afterward straighten surfaces 



54 MANUAL TRAINING 

through. Next with the plough or circular saw cut a groove 



Ml 
J 



n^ 



^1 

Hi. 



"^ 



1 



y<. inch deep ou surface No. 2, of each piece, the outlines of 



MANUAL TRAINING 55 

which mut he even with the hues of the mortises Miid tenons, 
when the pieces will appear as in Figs. 92 and 93. With the 
marking- gauge next mark hnes on the sides of the tenons 
at A in Fig. 93 from edge of tenon marked B as guide. Next 
with the knife and try square mark hnes across the side of 
tenons as at C, ^ inch from the shoulder to the tenon, 
and cut away the shaded portion of the tenon with the saw 
and paring chisel. Next cut the pieces in two parts at D and 
they are ready to be put together. Plane a piece for the panel, 
Yz inch by 5 inches by 9 inches. Bevel the edges of the piece 
on surface No. i to a gauge line drawn around the piece, 
using the four edges as a guide for the gauge and to a thick- 
ness which will allow the panel to enter the grooves in the 
frame and reach the bottom of the groove as shown in Fig. 94. 




Fig. 94-. 

Next put the frame together, enclosing the panel. Clamp the 
frame together and wedge the tenons at their ends and cut ofif 
the ends of the tenons even with the outside of frame. Dress 
off the ends of side pieces of frame and the work is complete. 
Bv performing the exercises shown in the foregoing pages 
the student should acquire sufficient skill in the use of bench 
tools, to enable him to leave this class of practice and begin on 
another line. 



PART TWO. 



Wood Turxixg for Beginners. 



The first to be considered is the lathe together with a de- 
scription of its principal parts, the shears, the head-stock, the 
tail-stock and the tool-rest. 




Fig. 95. 

The shears or bed are supported by legs to give the shears 
the proper height. (See E, Fig. 95.) The office of the shears 
is to support the head-stock, tail-stock, and tool-rest. The 
headstock is in a fixed position on the shears. The tail-stock 
IS movable and may be fixed at any position along the shears 
to accommodate the work to be done. The tool-rest may be 
adjusted to any position along the line of the shears, between 
the head-stock and tail-stock, and in any direction to accommo- 
date the 'work to be done. The head-stock (see B, Fig. 95) 
carries the spindle, and the spindle is provided with a cone- 
pulley, which carries a belt, which drives the spindle. The 



58 



MANUAL TRAINING 



spindle also carries a forked driving-center which revolves 
the piece of work in the lathe. The face-plate F is screwed on 
the end of the spindle and is for the purpose of attaching 
work which is thin and has no great length, to the lathe. 
The tail-stock C is to support the other end of the work, and 
upon the cup-center held in the tail-stock the work revolves. 
The rest D is adjustable at any point between the head-stock 
and tail-stock, as the work may require, and is held in posi- 
tion by means of screw-clamps or eccentrics at the bottom of 
the shears. (See G, Fig. 95.) The rest is required to sup- 
port the tool and to assist in guiding it in a proper manner. 
The forked or driving-center is shown in Fig. 96. The cup- 




FiR. 9G. 



Fig. 97. 




center is shown in Fig 97. The face-plate is shown in Figs. 




Fig. 98. 



Fig. 99. 



98 and 99. A larger face-plate is shown in Fig. 100. The 
swing of the wood-lathe is determined by measuring the 
distance from the point of the driving-center of the spindle 



MANUAL TRAINING 



59 



to the shears or bed, and muhiplying by two. Thus, if the 
distance from the center of spindle to the bed is 6 inches or 




Fig. 100. 

more, the lathe will accommodate w'ork 12 inches in diameter. 
The lathe tools are next considered. 

The gouge, (See Fig. 102) possesses the widest range of 
usefulness to the wood-turner and is first used to remove the 
rough corners of the piece. The same tool may be advanta- 
geously used in cutting grooves and compound curves. In the 
hands of a skillfull workman this tool may be made to do the 
work of other tools. The skew or finishing-chisel is shown 
in Fig. 103, and is used for finishing cylinders and cones, also 
for cutting convex surfaces, such as beads, balls, etc. It is also 
useful in cutting or squaring the ends. 

The scraping tools, such as are shown in Fig. 104, are used 
principally on face-plate work where the gouge or skew-chisel 
would be dangerous The scraping-tools are ground and whet- 
ted only on one side and wdien the whetting has been done, 
no effort should be made to remove the feather or wire edge, 
as this is a benefit to a scraping-tool. A scrapmg-tool of great 
merit is shown in Fig. 105. The tool is ground and whetted 
on one side only, as all other scraping-tools are, but its pecul- 
iar feature is corrugations on its upper side. When properly 



6o 



MANUAL TRAINING 



ground and whetted it has teeth on its cutting edge. This 
tool is useful in face-plate work, when the diameter of the work 
is great and the vibrations of the lathe and face-plate are de- 




^ I 





' iiii III iiumiumwaBm 




trimental to smooth surfaces* This tool may be used success- 
fully when the vibrations are so great that no other tool could 



MANUAL TRAINING 



6i 



be used. It makes a smooth surface, or so nearly so that sand 
paper will correct all irregularities. Add to the tools already 
mentioned the outside and inside calipers, the rule for measur- 




Z:::^ 



Fig. 105. 

ing-, the compasses for scribing, and the list of lathe-tools is 
complete for almost any work which the wood-turner mav 
come in contact with. In some cases, however, such as 
grooves and over-hanging portions, which cannot be reached 
with an ordinary tool, special tools are necessary to accomplish 
the work to be done. Special tools are necessary, for instance, 
in turning a l)all witliin a hollow ball. 



EXERCISE XO. 



Exercise No. i in wood-turnng is shown in Fig. 
io6 and consists of a parallel cylinder 6 inches in 
length and 1 1''', inches in diameter. The stock for this exercise 




should b^' T^.'^ inches 1 



Fig. lOG. 

)y i?s inches by 7 inches. The 



62 



MANUAL TRAINING 



center of the ends may be found in tb.e manner 
shown in Fig. 107. Draw diagonal hnes on each end, and the 

Intersection of these lines will be 
the center of the piece. At this 
])()int place the points of the lathe- 
centers and adjust, so that the work 
will revolve easily. Tighten the 
binding screw on the tail-stock spin- 
dle and the work is ready to be 
turned. With the gouge take off 
^■~'-- ^''~- the rough corners of the piece in 

short cuts, moving the tool tow^ard the starting end of the work. 
(See Fig. 108.) Never move the tool in a direction toward 
the uncut or square corners. This is to prevent splitting off the 
square corners and causing great danger to the operator. After 
the corners have been removed with the gouge and the piece is 
near the required size, the skew-chisel is used in finishing to 





the conrect size. Place the chisel on the work as shown in 
Fig. 109 and cut only with its heel, the cutting edge being at 
an angle of about 45 degrees with the liiie of the lathe-centers. 
Finish each end in this manner. Test diameter with the cali- 
pers. After the ends are reduced to the desired diameter, 
straighten from end to end with the skew-chisel. Test the 
diameter at the center with the calipers or a straight edge 
reaching from end to end of the cylinder. Square one end 
with the point of the skew-chisel, cutting at right angles to 



MANUAL TRAINING 



63 



lathe-centers. (See Fig. no.) Mark off the length the cyl- 
inder is to have, measuring from the finished end. Mark and 

/ 
/ 






^E^^ 




Fiy. 109. 

cut off to the line, leaving only a small portion to be cut off 
with the saw after the piece has been removed from the lathe. 




Fig. 110. 



64 



MANUAL TRAINING 



EXERCISE NO. 2. 



Exercise No. 2 consists of a conical shaped piece 6 inches 
in length and having a diameter at one end of i^^j inches and 
at the other end ^4 inch. (See Fig. iii.) Material of 




Fig. 111. 

the same dimensions as in Exercise No. i is needed. Place in 
the lathe in the same manner and remove the square corners 
with the gouge. Next square one end with the point of the 
skew-chisel and measure oft" the length, making a deep cut line 
at this end. With the skew-chisel reduce this end to 1^/2 inches. 
Next, with the gouge, reduce the squared end to nearly ^ 
inch, and finish to correct dimensions with the skew-chisel. 
\\'ith the correct diameter at each end nothing more is to be re- 
moved from the ends. Straighten from end to end with the 
skew-chisel, testing with the straight edge. Remove the work 
from the lathe and saw off the ends and the work is complete. 



EXERCISE xo. 3. 

Exercise No. 3 is shown in Fig. 112. The length is to be 
6 inches and the diameter at the ends and the center is i^ 



Fig. 112. 
inches. The diameter next to the ball is to be ^4 inch. The 
same size of material is necessary as in Exercises Nofv i and 



MANUAL TRAINING 



65 



2. Place the piece in the lathe as before described. Rough 
off with the gouge, and reduce to iVz inches with the skew- 
chisel. Measure and mark oft" the length, 6 inches, as in Ex- 
ercises I and 2. Set the points of the compasses at 2^4 inches 
and with one point of the compasses at end line of piece, and 
the other point reaching toward the opposite end, the compass- 
es resting across the tool-rest, the joint raised shghtly above 
the points, scribe a line from each end. With the point of the 
skew-chisel make incisions at the two lines as shown in Fig. 
113 to a depth of V^ inch. With the skew-chisel cut the 



tapers from each end toward the center. To turn the ball 
the work must be done with the skew-chisel, cutting only with 
the extreme heel, and holding the tool-handle back of an Im- 
aginary line running at right angle to the centers of the lathe, 
the handle being always kept on the opposite side of the line 
from the direction in which the cutting edge is being moved. 
This is imi)ortant, and must be observed or the operator will 
be unable to prevent the tool catching and badly marring the 
surface of the work. \Mien one side is finished the chisel must 
be reversed and the other portion of the ball will be cut, the 
cutting being done from the center line. The diameter of the 
ball may be tested with the calipers. Next, remove the work 
from the lathe and cut oft ends with the saw, and the work 
is complete. 



66 



MANUAL TRAINING 



EXERCISE NO. 4. 

Exercise No. 4 is shown in Fig. 114, and consists of eight 
beads, having a pitch of }i inch. This exercise is of the same 
dimensions as the preceding one as far as length and diameter 



Fig. 11 4-. 
are concerned, that is, 6 inches by 13^ inches. Proceed with 
the work as in Exercise No. i until a parallel cylinder is pro- 
duced. Then with the compasses set at ^ inch place one point 
at one end of the cylinder, the other point extending toward 
the other end, and the compasses resting across the tool-rest. 
Alark a line ^ inch from the end. Next place the first point 
of the compasses at the line made, the other point extending 
in ihe same direction as before, scribe another line, as shown 
in Fig. 115. Continue this operation until the end of the stick 




Fig. 115. 

has been reached. After the lines are scribed around the 
piece >^4 inch apart, the skew-chisel point is next used to make 



MANUAL TRAINING 



67 



incisions at the lines drawn, as shown in Figf. 116. Cut these 
V shaped incisions }s inch deep and round up with the heel 



/ 



M 



li^^'4 



Fig. 116. 

of tlie skew-chisel, observing the rule as laid down in Exercise 
No. 3 for cutting balls or beads. 



EXERCISE NO. ^. 



Exerci.se Xo. 5 is a series of grooves cut in a parallel cyl- 
inder as shown in Fig. 117. The spaces at the ends and be- 
tween the grooves are / 2 inch wide, and the grooves are ^ 



Fig. 117. 

inch wide and }i inch deep. The material for this exercise 
should be about 8 inches by i^s inches by i^/s inches. First 
turn a parallel cylinder i;< inches in diameter and 6^4 inches 
long. Set the compasses at ij^^ inches and with one point at 
either end mark off lines at intervals of i34 inches across the 
piece. Then beginning at the opposite end mark off lines 
in the same manner from this end. These lines will form the 
outlines of the grooves and spaces. Then with the y^ inch 
gouge, begin in the manner shown in Fig. 118. When cut- 
ting the left-hand half of grooves start with the gouge in 
the position shown at A, and when starting to cut the other 
half have the gouge as shown at B, never cutting more than 
half the "groove in one motion. When the grooves have been 



68 



MANUAL TRAINING 



formed their depth may be tested with the cahpers. The 
diameter at the bottom of the o^rooves should be }i inch. 



Fig. 118. 

When this diameter has l^een acquired and the curves are cut 
to the hues scribed, and arc symmetrical, the piece is ready 
to be removed from the lathe. 



EXERCISE NO. 6. 



Exercise No. 6 consists of a number of beads, cut on a 
parallel cylinder as shown in Fi.q-. 119. The same size of 
material is to be used as in Exercise No. i. First, cufofit' the 




Fig. 119. 

square corners of the piece with the gouge and reduce to 
I J/2 inches diameter with the skew-chisel. Square one end 
and mark and cut the length 6 inches. With the compasses 
mark oft' the beads and distances between, as shown in Fig. 
1 19. With the point of the skew-chisel, make incisions J4 i"ch 
deep as shown in Fig. 120. With the small gouge cut out 
the material between the beads and with small skew-chisel 



MANUAL TRAINING 



69 



smooth and reduce to i inch diameter. With the caHpers 
test the diameter between the beads. With the small skew- 
chisel roimd np the beads as in Exercise No. 4, always keeping 



hf~Tsr~Kr~Nr"Kr~N 



Fig. 120. 

in mind ih- rules laid down in Exercise Xo. 3. When the 
beads are finished the piece may be removed from the lathe 
and the ends sawed off. The piece is now finished. 



EXERCISE xo. 7. 



Exercise No. 7 is shown in Fig. 121. The same size of 
material is necessary in this as in Exercise Xo. i, and the work 
is begun in the same maimer. First prodtice a parallel cylindi?r 



Fig. 121 
iy'2 inclies in diameter b\' 6 inches in length. With the compass- 
es set to 3^ inch, scribe a line that distance from each end, 
and another one i inch from each end. Re-set the compasses 
at 2% inches and scribe a line from each end. Re-set again 
at 2^ inches and scribe a line froin each end. ^Mlen this 
has been done the work will appear as in Fig. 122. With 



B B A 
Fig. 122. 



70 



MANUAL TRAINING 



the 3^ inch skew-chisel make an incision Yz inch deep at A. 
Cut away the material between the lines A and A with the 
small g-ouge, finishing- with the 3^2 inch skew-chisel to Yi inch 
diameter as shown in Fig. 123. With the skew-chisel reduce 



BA ABBA AB 

Fig. 12. i. 



the diameter Y^ inch between the lines A and B as shown in 
Fig. 124. With the J/2 inch gouge form the curves as shown 





































\ / 


^ 






B / 












Fi 


3 


3 / 
4-. 


A 


3 



in Figs. 125 and 126. When this has been done the work is 
complete. When the student has become proficient, and can 





Fig. 126. 



Fig. 125. 

perform the work well in the foregoing exercises with the 
tools intended to be used for such work he will be able to 
work out more difficult ones as occasion may require. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



71 



EXERCISE NO. 



Exercise No. 8 consists of a handle for a paring-chisel or 
a lathe-chisel, and is shown in Fig. 127. The material for 
this should be hard wood and of the length and size to ac- 




Fig. 127. 

commodate the work to be done. Place the piece in the lathe 
as in the preceding exercises, and with the gouge reduce the 
piece to the diameter of the largest portion of the handle to 
be made. With the skew-chisel mark a line at a distance from 
the end equal to the length of the ferule to be put on. With 
the heel of the skew-chisel reduce the portion between the end 
and the line drawn to the proper diameter for the ferule. The 
piece may then be removed from the lathe, and the ferule 
placed in its position, and the work returned to the lathe. 
With the gouge form the fillets ; form the convex curves with 
the heel of the skew-chisel. This piece of w^ork should now 
be smoothed with sand paper, and polished either with linseed- 
oil or shellac varnish. Remove from the lathe and cut off 
the end. 



EXERCISE NO. 9. 



Exercise No. 9 is shown in Fig. 128, and must be made on 
the fa-ce-plate. The tools to be used are the scraping-tools. 



6 



^ 



X 



■s 



:] 



Fig. 128. 

Material for this exercise should be 4J/^ inches square and i 



12 



MANUAL TRAINING 



inch thick. Dress one side with the plane and scribe a circle 
with the compasses on the dressed side 4^ inches in diameter. 
wSaw to the circle on the band-saw. Fasten the disc to the 
face-plate with the center-screw, with the dressed side against 
the face-plate. With the round-nose chisel remove the rough 



Fig. 129. 

edge of the disc and finish with square edge scraping-chisel 
to 4 inches diameter. With the same tool finish the flat siu"- 
face, reducing the thickness to /s inch. With the same tool 



Fig. 130. 

remove the corner to a depth of y^ inch from the face, re- 
ducing the face to a diameter of 2^4 inches, as shown in Fig. 
129. With the same tool cut from the edge toward the center 



J 



Fig. 131. 

of the disc, leaving only 34 i"ch of the width of the edge 
and cutting to a dej)th of Vi^ inch, as shown in Fig. 130. With 
the round-nose scraping-tool form the concave curve as shown 



£L 




in Fig. 131. 



Fig. 132. 

Finally, with the narrow square edge scraping- 



tool round the corner to form a quarter-round bead, as shown 
in Fig. 132. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



11 



EXERCISE XO. 10. 



Exercise Xo. lo is a small picture frame, a cross section of 
which is shown in Fig\ 133. The material for this exercise 
should ]■)(? 7 inches by 7 inches by i inch. To prepare it for 





Fis. 133. 

the lathe proceed in the same manner as in the preceding- ex- 
ercise, except that it is unnecessary to dress with the plane. 
Scribe a circle on one rough side 6Y\ inches in diameter and 
saw to the circle with band-saw. Attach to the face-plate 
by the center-screw and reduce the edge of disc with the scrap- 
ing-tools until a diameter of 6^ inches is obtained. With 
the square edge tool face ofif the flat side and cut with the 
same tool to the shape shown in Fig. 134. The opening shown 




Fig 134.. 

in iMg. 134 is to be 4V2 inches across with a depth of >4 '"ch. 
After this cut has been made, remove the piece from the face- 
plate and attach to the center-screw another disc, one hav- 
ing a diameter greater than 4>^ inches. Face this off with 
the square edge tool, and reduce the diameter to 43/ inches. 
Place the piece on this disc in the manner shown in Fig. 135. 




74 



MANUAL TRAINING 



A good fit is necessary to retain the price ni its proper po- 
sition until the work is finished. Next reduce the piece 
to a thickness of Js inch. This is to be done with the 
square edge scraping-tool. With the diamond-point or 
side-tool remove the center of disc as is shown in Fig. 136. 




Fig. 136. 

The opening should be 3)4 inches across, and the width of 
material remaining, i^ inches. Next, with the square edge 
chisel, cut away the corners to a depth of ^4 inch from the 
face and 7-16 inch from both inside and outside edges. Then 
the piece will appear as in Fig. 137, a portion 3^ inch in width 
and 34 inch in height remaining at the center of face. This 
projecting portion may now be rounded up with the square 
edge chisel, as shown in Fig. 138, which forms a bead. After 






Fig. 137. Fig. 138. Fig. 139. 

this the concave curves may be cut with the round-nose chisel, 
leaving a margin of ys inch on either side of the bead and 
cutting to depth of 34 inch in a direction toward the face- 
plate. A section of the work will then appear as in Fig. 139. 
The piece may now be smoothed with sand-paper and polished 
with oil or shellac, and the frame is complete. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



75 



EXERCISE NO. II. 



Exercise No. ii is shown in Fig. 140. The stock for this 
exercise should be 4 inches by 4 inches by 6 inches. Attach 




Fig. 140. 

to face-plate endwise by center-screw and trne up with gouge 
and skew-chisel to the diameter of the largest portion of the 
exercise which is 3>< inches. With the jxiint of the skcw- 





Fig. 141. 

chisel, square the end. Proceed with the round-nose chisel to 
cut out the inside of cup as shown in Fig. 141. After the inside 



-6 MANUAL TRAIXIXG 

of cup lias been finished, and polished with the oil or shellac, 
the lines marking the distances from bottom to top are to be 
measured, and marked with the compasses. Next, with the 
point of skew-chisel and small gouge, remove the portion as 




shown in Fig. 142. The portion outside of dotted lines may 
be cut away with the gouge and square edge scraping-tool. 
\Mien th.is has been done the piece will appear as in Fig. 143. 





The stem may next be formed with the gouge, the round-nose 
and diamond-point scraping-chisels. The exercise will then 



MANUAL. TRAINING 



17 



appear as in Fig-. 144. The base is the only portion remain- 
ing to be fornied. The cutting off at the bottom Hne is done 
with the point of the skew-chisel. The edge of the bottom is 




V\s. l-i-i. 



smoothed with the square edge scraping-tool. Sandpaper and 
polish the outside, and the work is ready to be removed from 
the lathe. 



78 



MANUAL TRAINING 



EXERCISE NO. 12. 

Exercise No. 12 is shown 
in Fig. 145, and is a cup or 
urn similar to Exercise No. 
II, except that the angles 
and curves are slightly dif- 
ferent and the urn has a cov- 
er. Two pieces are neces- 
sary' to complete this exer- 
cise. For the cup the same 
size material is used as in 
Exercise No. ii, and is at- 
tached to the face-plate in 
the same manner. Begin 
turning by roughening off 
with the gouge and finishing 
to 3V2 inches diameter with 
the skew-chisel. Next square 
the end with the point of the 
skew-chisel, and turn out the 
inside of cuj) with the round- 
nose chisel to a diameter of 
Fig. 14.5. 2 y?, inches. When this is 

done cut the seat for the cover with the square-end scraping- 
























J 


— 


^^ 


~ 


\ 

\ 





Fig. 14.6. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



79 



tool, when the piece will appear as in Fig. 146. Next mark 
off the lines from the top to the bottom of the cup as shown 
in Fig. 146. 

With the point of skew-chisel, make incisions as shown 
in Fig. 147, and reduce the size of piece at this point to 1^4 




Fig. 147. 



inches. With the point of skew-chisel, next make an incision 
1-16 inch in depth, as shown at A, Fig. 147, awd reduce diam- 
eter of body of cup to 3^ inches as at B. With the heel of 




:f.5;\^.^r^ 


B 




B 




Fig. 148. 

skew-chisel, next form the curve of outside of bowl, as shown 
in Fig. 148. With the small gouge, next cut fillet in the stem, 



8o 



MANUAL TRAINING 



as at A, Fig-. 148. With the skew-chisel, remove the portion 
marked B, leaving the diameter 2^4 inches. With the small 
gouge, next form the compound curves in the stem, below 
the fillet, when the piece will appear as in Fig 149. With 




Kig. 149. 

the point of the chisel, next make an incision at the last line, 
and with the square edge scraping-tool, reduce the diameter 
of the base to 3 inches. Xext sandpaper and polish. The 
work is then to be cut off at the bottom with the point of skew 
chisel, and this piece of the exercise is complete. 

The other portion of the exercise is the cover, and requires 




material 4 inches by 4 inches by 6 inches. This piece is to 
be attached to the face-plate in the same manner as the pre- 



MANUAL TRAINING 



8i 



ceding half and the corners reduced to 3 1-16 inches with 
the gouge and skew chisel. Square the end with the point 
of skew chisel and proceed with the round-nose chisel to 
remove the inside portion of cover as shown in Fig. 150. With 
the point of skew chisel, next mark a line 54 inch from the 
end. Afark another line at the terminus of compound curves 




of the outside of cover, and others for the acorn or handle on 
top of cover. With the point of skew chisel make incision at 
the second line as shown in Fig. 151. With the gouge next 
form the curves of the outside of cover, when the work will 





Fig. 152. 

appear as in Fig. 152. The next step is to sandpaper and 
polish the cover as it will be too frail and not rigid enough 



82 MANUAL TRAINING 

to stand the pressure of polishing- after the acorn has been 
formed. After the polishing, form the acorn or handle with 
the small skew chisel and gouge, leaving a small stem not 
cut off to retain the work on the face-plate until the acorn 
or handle of cover can be sandpapered and polished. After 
this, cut off the stem and the work of this exercise is complete. 
The foregoing exercises in wood-turning will be sufficient 
to demonstrate the use of all the principal tools in wood-turn- 
ing and to prepare the student for any exercise he may be given 
in pattern work. 



THIRD PART. 



PATTERN MAKING. 



Of the different kinds of wood serviceable to the pattern 
maker soft white pine is for many reasons the best. It should 
be of the best quahty, straight grained and free from knots. 
It is then easy to work in any direction, and possesses at the 
same time sufficient strength for all but the most delicate kinds 
of work, and has, besides, the quality of cheapness to recom- 
mend it. Care taken in its selection at the lumber yard will be 
amply repaid in the pattern shop. When it is straight grained 
the marks left by the saw will show an even roughness 
throughout the whole length of the plank and the rougher 
the appearance the softer and better for the purpose of the 
pattern maker. That which saws comparatively smooth will 
be found hard and troublesome to work. If the plank has an 
uneven appearance, rough in some places and smooth in others, 
the grain is crooked, and, in planing it, the grain tears up and 
a smooth surface cannot be obtained. 

The superiority of pine for pattern making, however, is not 
maintained when we come to fine and delicate patterns or 
those requiring great durability. When patterns are required 
for fine work, from which a great many castings are to be 
made, a pattern wherefrom to cast an iron pattern must be 
made. If pine were employed, it would not only wear out 
rapidly, but would soon warp and become useless. 

It is true that a pine pattern will straighten more easily 
than one made of hard wood, but its sphere of usefulness in 
fine patterns is, for the above reasons, somewhat limited. Iron 
patterns are very desirable on account of their durability and 
because thev leave the sand easily and cleanly, and because 
they do not warp. They are also less liable dian the wooden 



84 MANUAL TRAINING 

ones to give way to the sand, while the latter is being- rammed 
around them. l)y the moulder, a defect that is often experi- 
enced with light patterns, especially if they are made of pine. 
Iron patterns, however, are expensive, and therefore it is 
that mahogany is extensively used for fine or durable ])attern 
work. 

Other woods are sometimes employed, because they stand 
the rough usage . of the foundry better and retain the sharp 
corners better than the pine. In case pine is used, the corners 
become rounded in time, and impair the appearance of the 
casting. IMahogany is not liable to warp nor subject to decay, 
and is for these reasons the most desirable of all woods for 
pattern making. There are various kinds of mahogfany, but 
that known as "South American" is most used for patterns. 
Next to mahogany we may rank cherry, which is a very dur- 
able wood, but more liable to twist or warp than mahogany 
and is somewhat harsh to the tool's edge. If, however, it is 
stored and well seasoned before being used, reliable patterns 
may be made from it. Small patterns and core boxes, however, 
may be made successfully from hard maple 

The one property in all timl^er to be specially guarded 
against is this tendency to warp, bend, expand and contract, 
according to the amount of humidity in the atmosphere. Un- 
der ordinary circumstances, we shall be right in supposing- 
moisture to be given off constantly from all exposed surfaces 
of timber. Therefore, lumber stored in the pattern shop should 
be placed in a rack, so contrived that the planks do not touch 
one another, so that the air can circulate between the planks 
and drv all surfaces as nearly alike as possible. If a plank 
newly planed be lying on the bench, on its flat side, the moist- 
m-e will be given off freely from the upper'surface, but on the 
under surface will be confined between the bench and the plank. 
The result will be that the plank planed straight and left lying 
as described will be found, even in an hour, to be curved, from 
the contraction of the upper surface, due to the extra expos- 



MANUAL TRAINING 



8.; 



ure. See Fig. 153. Therefore it is that kimber newly planed 
should be stored on end or placed on its edge. Lumber ex- 
pands and contracts with considerable force across the grain. 





Fig. 153. 

Hence, if a piece, even of dry plank, be rigidly held and 
confined at the edges, it will shrink and rend in twain, often 
wdth a loud report. There is no appreciable alteration length- 
wise from the above causes. If two pieces are glued together 
in such a manner that the grain of one crosses that of the 
other, they can never be relied upon to hold safely. 

The shrinkage, expansion, and warping of timber may 
perhaps be better understood by considering as follows. The 
pores of the wood run lengthwdse or with the grain, and 
hence, the moisture contained in these pores passes off more 
readilv endwise or from any surface on which the ])ores ter- 
minate. Then again, the wood shrinks precisely in the propor- 
tion in w^hich the moisture leaves it, and, if we have full knowl- 
edge of the direction of the grain, and of the position in which 
a piece of limber stands or lies, we can predict in which direc- 
tion it will warp. Thoroughly seasoning the timber will not 
remove its tendency to warp. For no matter how long and 
carefully timber has been dried or seasoned, it undergoes con- 
siderable transformation of shape, as soon as much of its sur- 
face has been removed, making it appear that the seasoning 
or drying process takes place mainly at the outer surfaces 
If we take a thoroughly seasoned piece of wood three inches 



86 



MANUAL TRAINING 



square and one foot long, and cut it into strips one Inch 
square, the pieces will warp, and after a time if we take these 
one inch strips and cut them into strips ^4 of an inch square, 
these will again warp : and no matter what pains may be taken 
with these last strips to season them and let them assume 
their new shape, if we cut them into thin veneers, the warping 
process would again set in. It is well, therefore, in particular 
work, to cut out roughl}- the various parts of the pattern, so 
that while some parts are being worked upon, the others may 
be assuming their new shape and become less liable to warp 
after being worked up in the pattern. 

There are some essential rules, which must be known to 
the student, before he begins work on the pattern. Namely, 
those regarding draft, shrinkage and allowance for finish, as 
well as for shellacking and finishing. 

B}^ draft in pattern practice is meant 
the allowance the pattern maker makes 
for the assistance of the moulder, to en- 
able him to remove the pattern after it 
has been rammed up in the sand. Fig. 
154 will give an idea of what is meant 
by draft. This figure represents a cube 
12 inches square to be made of iron. 
The dimensions of the pattern must be 
}i inch less at the bottom than at the 
top. In this case the bottom would be 
11 yi inches and furnish a draft of }i 
inch in twelve. This allowance should 
be made on the vertical sides of all pat- 
terns, for otherwise, the moulder would 
Fig. 154. experience trouble in removing the pat- 

tern from the sand after having molded it. 




MANUAL TRAINING 87 

Allowance for shrinkage means that the pattern must be 
made as much larger in every direction as the metal will shrink 
in cooling after the casting is made, thereby leaving the cast- 
ing true to the dimensions given in the drawing. This allow- 
ance in ordinary cast iron is }i inch in 12 inches. This is 
made easy for the pattern maker by the use of the shrinkage 
rule. This rule is 24}^ inches long, standard measure, and 
is divided in the same manner as the standard rule into inches 
and subdivisions of an inch. Patterns for brass castings re- 
quire an allowange of 3-16 inch in 12 inches. 

Rules for shellacking and finishing are as follows : A pat- 
tern to be cast in iron should be varnished black and the core 
prints }ellow. For brass the ])attcrn should be yellow, and 
the core prints black. Tn applying the varnish to the pattern,, 
personal instruction is deemed necessary. Allowance for fin- 
ish of the casting must be made in accordance with drawings 
and specifications. Ordinarily the allowance for finish in iron 
is % inch on each surface, where finish is required, and 1-16 
inch on brass castings. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



EXERCISE NO. I. 



Exercise No. i in pattern making is a hand face-plate and 
is shown in Fig. 155. Add % inch to the thickness of the plate 
to allow for finish of the casting at F. Plane out the plate 



?•» -" 



=— / 



-# 




Fig. 1,5,5. 

to the required thickness and give the edges a draft toward 
the handle of i:)late. Dress out the handle to the required size, 
giving it draft on its sides. Glue and nail handle to plate. 
With a piece of sand paper folded tightly around a true sur- 
faced block, sandpaper smoothly all surfaces of pattern, be- 
ing careful to keep all surfaces and angles true and not round- 
ing or wearing away the corners. This pattern is to be cast 
in iron and must be varnished black. After the first coat of 
varnish is dry, sandpaper all surfaces lightly until smooth, 
being careful not to remove the varnish with the sand paper. 
When smooth varnish again and repeat the above operation 
until a proper finish is obtained. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



89 



EXERCISE NO. 2. 



Exercise No. 2 is shown in Fig. 156. The material re- 
quired in this exercise should be 6l^ inches by 2>4 inches 
by 2 inches. First plane the bottom surface to a true plane and 





Fig. 156. 

mark No. i. Square No. 2 to No. i. Gauge a line on surface 
No. I, using No. 2 as a guide for the gauge. Plane the third 
side to the line made on No. i, s(|uaring it to No. i. With the 
try square and knife mark a line around one end. Dress the 
end square to the line with the chisel or block plane. Next 
measure the length 6 inches from the squared end and mark 
a line around this end and dress to the line. With surface No. 
I as guide, and the gauge set at 2% inches, mark a line on 
surface No. 2. Re-set the marking gauge at Yj inch and gauge 
a line on surface No. 3, using surface No. I as a guide. Next 
set the compasses at 74 inch. Place a small block of wood 
against surface No. 2, and even with the surface of one end ; 
place one point of the compasses at the temiinus of the gauge 
line on surface No. 2, the other in the joint fomied by the small 
block and the pattern. Using this improvised center, scribe 
a quarter circle on the end of piece beginning at the terminus 
of the gauge line. Next transfer the block to surface No. 
3 and repeat the operation starting the quarter circle at the 
terminus of the gauge line on surface No. 3 and meeting the 
first quarter circle drawn, thus forming a compound curve. 
Repeat this operation on the other end, and the fourth surface 
is ready to be dressed with the gouge and chisel. Dress the 
concave surface to the lines with the gouire and the convex sur- 



90 



MANUAL TRAINING 



face with the chisel. Sandpaper tlie concave with the paper 
held firmly around a round sand paper block and lengthwise 
with the grain. The convex i? to be sandpapered with the 
paper folded and sprung around the surface. The flat surfaces 
are to be sandpapered with the paper folded closely around 
a true and flat surfaced block, being careful not to wear away 
the sharp corners of the pattern. After the pattern has been 
shellacked and polished as in Xo. i, it is ready for the moulder. 
Both Exercises No. i and Xo. 2 are called plain ]:)atterns for 
the reason that when they are moulded the mould is called a 
plain mould. In these cases the mould is formed in the lower 
portion or drag of the flask. In the following exercises the 
mould is formed in both the lower and upper halves of the 
flask and for this reason patterns are divided at the center. 



EXERCISE NO. 3. 

Exercise X^o. 3 is shown in Fig. 157 and is a hollow cylin- 
der 2^/2 inches in diameter and 6 inches in length having an 
opening through the center 154 inches in diameter. The metal 




Fig. 157. 

is to be 5/g inch in thickness. To form this casting a core 
must be used, hence, a box in which to form the core must 
be made as well as the pattern. Material for this exercise 
must be 10 inches or more in length and i^^ inches by 2;54 
inches. Two pieces of this size are necessary. Dress both 
pieces to a true plane on the widest surfaces. Place the dressed 
surfaces together and fasten at the ends with screws. Mark 
the center across piece on one side ; with the auger bit bore 
holes through one-half of the piece and one-half inch into the 



MANUAL TRAINING 



91 



other half 1]/^ inches each way from the center Hne ; place 
dowel pins through first half extending- Vz inch into second 
half. The piece will then appear as in Fig. 158. The piece is 



-2i- 



\0 



Fig. 158. 

now ready to be placed in the lathe and turned to the given 
diameter. Mark a line at the center between the dowel pins. 
Measure from the center line each way with the comi)asses 
and scribe a light line to mark the end of the pattern. With 
the skew chisel next luake incisions at the end lines and near 
the screws holding the pieces together. Reduce the diameter 
at the ends to the inside dimensions of the cylinder, i'4 
inches, when the piece will a]ipear as in Fig. 159. Make a 



|[V— 




Fig. 159. 

deep cut line on the 1>4 inch portions. I '4 inches from end 
of the pattern. Sandpaper and smooth the piece and varnish 
the 1 '4 inch portion yellow, and the body of the pattern black. 
The work of polishing patterns in the lathe may be done most 
neatly by using a piece of cloth on the shellac before it has 
dried, removing all the varnish that the cloth will remove by 
pressure. A verv smooth finish may be obtained in this man- 
ner, but the more ordinary method is to allow the varnish to 
drv and then smooth with sand paper. Remove the work from 
the lathe and cut ofif the ends and varnish again, and when dry 



92 



MANUAL TRAINING 



the pattern is finished, and will appear as in Fig i6o. The 
projecting ends 1^4 inches in diameter are called core prints 
and form a place in the mould in which to place the core. Ma- 







-«— l4-»-' 6 **—i^ — 

Fig. 160. 

terial for the core bo.x should be two pieces SjA inches by 3 
inches by ij4 inches. Place the two pieces together as was 
done with the pattern, finished surfaces together, clamp in the 
vise and bore and dowel in the same manner as for the jiattcrn 
except that the dowels ^shoukl be near the edge. Joint one 
e(\ge and square the ends, dressing end finished last until 
the length of the two pieces is 83^^ inches, when the work will 
appear as in Fig. 161. Next, open the pieces, set the gauge at 



8^- 



J 



Fig. 161. 

Yj inch and scribe a line on the inside surfaces of both, using 
the jointed edges as a guide. Re-set the gauge at i^ inches 
and mark another line on each piece parallel to the jointed 
edge. Place the pieces together and with the compasses scribe 
a circle on each end between the points at which the gauge 
lines terminate, the ])oints of radius being on the parting 
lines of the two pieces. Separate the pieces and remove the 
portion inside the circles and between the gauge lines with the 
paring gouge, allowing sufficient for sandpapering. Sand- 
paper with the two parts held finnly together and with the 
sandpaper wrapped closely around a cylindrical and parallel 



MANUAL TRAINING 



93 



sandpaper block. Sandpaper the ends until they are smooth. 
Varnish and poHsh the ends and inside of box when it will 
appear as in Fig. 162. The core prints on the pattern and the 
dotted lines in Fig. 160 represent the size of the core moulded 



i 



Fig. 162. 

in this core box and placed in the mould after the pattern has 
been removed. The portion outside of dotted lines repre- 
sents the space left for the metal, which, forming around the 
core, becomes a hollow cylinder. 



94 



MANUAL TRAINING 



EXERCISE NO. 4. 

Exercise No. 4 as shown in Fig. 163 is an open end wrench. 
The material for this pattern shonld be lo inches by 2^/2 inches 
by Js iiit-'h. dressed, jointed on one edge. With the marking 
. 24 * 






Fig. 163. 



F~ig. 164. 



Fig. 165. 



MANUAL TRAINING 95 

gauge, mark a line on both the wide surfaces at the center,' 
using the jointeci edge as a guide. With the knife and try 
square mark a hue across the surface il^ inches from one 
end and continue hne around on opposite side. Measure off 
and mark a line on opposite end 7^/2 inches from first cross 
line drawn. The points where these lines cross the center line 
will be the points of radius for the circle outlining the head 
and the end of handle. Set the compasses at i>-^ inches and 
scribe a circle on both sides of one end. This is the outline 
of the head. Set the compasses at ?« inch and scribe a half 
circle on both sides of the other end. using the points where 
the lines cross as a radial point. With the compasses set at 
34 inch place one point on the center line, and. where the out- 
line of the head crosses the center line, mark points on each 
side of center line. These points arc to give the width at 
the widest portion of the handle. With a straight edge and 
knife mark lines from these points tangent to the half circle 
outlining the end of handle. Draw these lines on both sides. 
With the compasses set at j7-i6 incli mark points on each side 
of center line on both sides of the head. From the jointed 
edge set the marking gauge at the last point marked and mark 
lines parallel with the center line beginning at the circum- 
ference of circle and extending to the cross lines. With the 
compasses set at ?.s inch, place one point at the juncture of 
the last gauge line and the cross line, the other resting on 
the center line and between the last lines drawn. Using the 
latter position as a center, mark a portion of a circle from 
one juncture to the other, thus forming the outline of the open- 
ing in the end of the head when the lines on the piece will 
appear as in Fig. 164. The ^ inch auger bit may next be 
used in removing the portion to be cut away between jaws, 
being careful to cut near the line. With the band saw next 
cut along the lines of the jaws. Leave enough material so that 
the opening may be pared to a smooth surface with the chisel 
and goug-e. Cut to the lines on each side and afterward 
straigliten the surfaces across. With the sand paper give the 



MANUAL TRAINING 



opening a little draft. With the band saw cut near the outline 
and afterward pare to the line with the chisel. This properly 
done the outline of the wrench is formed. Next, mark point 
near the head on the edge of the handle % inch from the 
broad surfaces to designate the thickness of the handle. At the 
end of the handle where the cross lines terminate mark other 
points 3-16 inch from the broad surfaces. With a straight 
edge and knife mark lines from point to point the length of 
handle. This gives the taper of the handle. Then, with the 
paring chisel remove the portion outside of lines, cutting true 
to the lines and straightening across, leave ys inch next to 
the outlines of the head to afterward form a fillet w'here 
the handle and head join. The piece will now appear as in 
Fig. 165. The handle has now the required dimensions in 
both outlines and must be kept so and not reduced in round- 
ing up. The handle may be worked to an elliptical form by 
chamfering at the corners until a sectional view appears as 
in Fig. 166. \\'hen the handle has reached this stage, remove 




Fig. lOO. 

the corners or angles evenly. This will make it easy to 
keep the handle symmetrical in form. Form the fillet at 
the juncture of the head and handle with a knife or 
gouge. Sandpaper the handle lengthwise with the paper 
folded and sprung around the work. Use the sand paper on 
a block for fiat surfaces. Preserve all sharp corners. The 
pattern is now ready for shellac and finishing. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



97 



EXERCISE NO. 5. 

Exercise No. 5 consists of a small hand wheel as shown in 
Fig. 167. To construct this pattern properlx' the ring should 
he built separately and the arms inserted after the ring is 




Fig. 167. 

completed. The ring is 6 inches in diameter and ys inch 
round. To construct the ring proceed in the following man- 



g8 MANUAL TRAINING 

ner : Scribe a circle on a piece of soft pine % inch thick 
and 6% inches in diameter. Saw to the circle on the band 
saw and attach to the small face-plate by center screw. Face 
lip the disc in the lathe. With the compasses lay out on j4- 
inch stock one-fourth of the ring, allowing stock for turning. 
The outside radius should be 3^4 inches and the inside radius 
1% inches. Saw out this segment for a pattern. Use this 
to mark out 7 others and saw out to the lines. Join these 
together endwise around the circumference of the face-plate. 
Glue the joints and attach to the face-plate by screws from the 
back. Place pa])er between the segments and the face-plate 
to prevent the ring from being glued to the latter. When one 
set or course of segments is complete, place the face-plate on 
the lathe and turn the face of segments true and straight 
across. Dress one side- of the other four pieces and glue on 
the second course, placing this set of joints between the joints 
of the first course. Clamping one course to the other with 
hand screws, until the glue is dry and hard. The dogs or 
binders as shown in Fig. 168 must be used in drawing together 



Fig. 1.'.8. 

the end joints of segments and should be left in position until 
the glue is dry. When the glue is w^ell set, remove the clamps 
and dogs and place in the lathe and proceed to turn the ring- 
in the following manner : 

With the square edge scraping tool remove the flat face 
of the outer course of segments until its thickness is 7-16 
inch. Turn outside diameter to 6 inches and the inside to 4^4 



MANUAL TRAINING 



99 



inches. With the same tool remove the corners until the out- 
side course of segments in section would form one-half of an 
octagon as shown in Fig. 169. Next remove the corners and 




Fig. 1<>9. 

form a half circle of the section of the first course, 
when the work will appear as in Fig. 170. Remove the 
screws and the ring from the face-plate and with the 





Fig. 170. 

s((uare edge scraping tool cut out the edge of disc until 
the center appears as in Fig. 171 and is of proper diameter 



A 



for fhe ring to fit tightly over. Place the turned side of 
ring next to face-plate and press firmly in position when the 

L ofC. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



piece will appear as in Fig. 172. With the ring in this posi- 
tion it may be finished to the proper dimensions with the square 
edge scraping tool. When sand-papered, varnished and pol- 




Fig. 172. 



ished, the ring will be complete. Before removing the work 
from the face-j)late, mark a line at the point marked A, in Fig. 
173, with a sharp point of the compasses. This line is for the 




Fig. 173. 

purpose of centering the hub, that is, locating its center on 
the arms after they are inserted. Remove the ring from the 
face-plate and it is ready for the arms. Dress out a piece 
7-16 inch in thickness and 1^/2 inches wide and of proper 
length for the arms. Set the compasses to the radius of the 
circle marked on the ring and from the center of this piece 
mark lines on each end of the piece to correspond with the 
centering circle. Cut to this line and place the piece in position 
on ring, and mark at the edge of piece to outline the recess 
or pocket to be cut in ring to receive the arms. Cut out to 
the centering circle and to the lines marked when the piece 
was in position on the ring, cutting half way through the ring. 



Place the piece in position in pockets cut, when it will appear 
as in Fig. 174. Next turn the hub to the dimensions given. 
Scribe a circle at the center on arms, the size of hub, and place 





Fig. 1 7+. 




hub in its proper position. See Fig. 175. With the paring 
chisel and knife reduce the arms to an elliptical form, leaving 
fillets where the arms enter the ring. Sandpaper the arms, 
shcllack and polish. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



.EXERCISE NO. 6. 



Exercise No. 6 is a base for a small jack-screw and is 
shown in Fig-. 176. This pattern may be made in one piece 
and cast in a plain mold. The position to be bottom upward 




vviien cast. The material for the pattern should be two pieces 
each 5J/2 inches by 53^2 inches by 2 inches. Dress one side of 
each piece and glue together the dressed surfaces. When the 
glue is dry dress one broad surface of the glued pieces. With 
the compasses set at 2^i inches scribe a circle 5)4 inches in 
diameter on the dressed surface. Saw to this circle on the band 
saw. Attach to the small face-plate w^ith the center screw, 
and turn the concave surface with the round-nose scraping 
tool and the convex with the square edge tool. To get the 
curves correctly in this pattern and core box, the work should 
be tested by templets, which show the curves outside and in- 
side of the casting to be made from the pattern. Otherwise, 
the proper thickness of the metal may not be obtained. When 
the curves are perfect on the outside surface, sandpaper and 



MANUAL TRAINING 



103 



polish. Remove from the lathe and turn prints for each end of 
the pattern to correspond with the size of the openings in 





' — 


- 1 - 


— ► 


1' 




i 

♦ ■ 











Fig. 177. Fig. 178. 

the ends of the casting-. The small print on the top of pattern 
should he i inch in diameter and r inch in height and attached 
to the pattern as shown in Fig. 177. 



Fig. 179. 



104 



MANUAL TRAINING 



The hole in the pattern should be bored at the center. The 
larger print should be 2^ inches in diameter and }i inch 
in thickness, with a dowel at the center. The diameter at 
the top should be ^4 inch less than at the base of print. See 




Section No. 1. 




No. 4. 




Fig. 180. 

Fig. 178. These prints are to be varnished yellow. When 
the prints are on the pattern, the pattern will appear as in Fig. 
179. The core to be formed in the box to be made is outlined 



MANUAL TRAINING 



105 



bv the prints on the pattern and the dotted lines in Fig. 179. 
A core box to form one-half of the cor^ will be sufficient. 
Construction of the box may be best accomplished by making 
it in sections as shown in Fig. 180. Section No. i may be 
done most advantageously by laying out the lines with the 
compasses and square and paring out with the gouge. No. 2. 
may be attached to the face-plate and turned out with the 
round-nose scraping tool, using the templet to test the curves. 
Nos. 3 and 4 may be done either on the face-plate or cut out 
with the gouge. When the pieces are all formed glue the 
parts together, sandpaper and varnish and the box is ready 
for the foundry. The core box will form a half-round core 
and two are needed to form the complete core. 



EXERCISE NO. J. 



Exercise 7 is an elbow pipe coupling and is shown in 
Fig. 181. The size of the pipe this elbow is to accommodate 
is lYo inches inside and i 15-16 inches outside measurement, al- 




Fig. 181. 

lowance to be made for thread cutting on the inside of elbow. 
To construct this pattern proceed in the following manner. Saw 
a piece 12 inches by 3 inches by i]/. inches. Plane one side true; 
saw the piece in two parts and place the dressed surfaces to- 



io6 



MANUAL TRAINING 



gether and fasten at the ends with screws. The piece w^ill 
appear as in Fig. 182. Bore holes and ])lace 3/^ inch dowel 



Fig. 182. 



AAA A 



' 1 








■" 


1 1 

i I 


V -' 

>-' 

1 1 

1 


1 1 
1 1 

El 










1 1 
1 1 
1 t 
1 1 


1 
1 1 


ti 


t/ 








1 1 


p 


^- 












V7 



-IK." X -"'s XI4X •''s X l\./ 



1 • 
1 1 

i ' 





/ 


\ 






1 • 

iJ 

"1 


1 , 
1 1 

1 1 






r., 

• 


i_ 1 


N 


/ 




'--' 











Fig. 1»3. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



107 



pins ^y'l inches apart as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 182. 
Place the piece in the lathe and reduce to 2^ inches diameter. 
With the compasses mark lines on the piece as shown at A, 



1 ' 
1 ! 




f Y 


Y^ 




>v 




1 J 


•-J 








' 1 


rr' 


'.-^ 








' 1 


^> 


h 








1 ' 


I'J 


C3 


v^^ 








I--, 


*r3 










Ct 


"9. 












'i 




La 


aJ 




y 







Fig. 184. 

Fig'. 183. With the small skew chisel cut away and reduce 
the diameter to i.l^ inches between the lines which are i>2 
inches apart. Sandpaper and varnish this portion yellow. 





Fig. 185. 

Next, form with the skew chisel the beads and varnish them 



io8 



MANUAL TRAINING 



black. The piece will then appear as in Fig. 184. Cut off the 
ends at the core prints and cut pieces into two parts, when 
they will appear as in Fig. 185. Mark out with the com- 
passes and saw on the band saw a disc 2 inches thick and 6 
inches in diameter. Place this on the face-plate and turn to 
the shape shown in Fig. 186. Cut out of this two quadrants 




Fig. 186. 

and glue to the pieces previously formed and the work will 
then appear as in Fig. 187. When the piece has been properly 
sandpapered and varnished it is complete. The core box 
for this pattern should be made in the following manner. Se- 
lect a piece of material i>< inches in thickness and 4 inches 
by 6 inches and lay out as shown in Fig. 188. When the laying 
out has been done as is shown in the sketch, cut off the 
ends of piece to the oblique lines marked A-A in Fig. 188. 
Square these ends to surface No. i, the surface on which the 
lines are. With the compasses scribe a line on the ends 



MANUAL TRAINING 



109 




Fig. 188. 



no MANUAL TRAINING 

between the lines which are V/z inches apart. \\"\\\\ the paring 
goug-e and carving tool or outside ground gouge, work out 
the lines to a depth equal to half the distance between the 
lines. The sectional view of the core box will then be a half 
circle. This half circle may be proven by the try square. 
Sandpaper the inside of box and when the ends have been 
put on, the inside and top of box should be varnished in the 
same manner as the pattern. This core box forms onlv one- 
half of the core. However, the core maker is able to form a 
whole core from a half core box, by pasting together. 



EXERCISE NO. 8. 



Exercise No. 8 is a pattern for a small jiullev as shown in 
Fig. 189. This pattern should be made as follows: Saw on 
the band saw a disc y^ inch in thickness and 63/ inches in 





Fig. 189. 

diameter. Place this on the face-plate of the lathe and turn 
up its face. Dress material for the arms of the pulley to 34 
inch in thickness and 23^:4 inches in width and 3^ inches in 



MANUAL TRAINING 



length. Eight pieces will be required to form the arms. Place 
four of them on the face-plate in the manner shown in Fig. 




Fig. 190. 

190 and attach to face-plate with nails near the edge of pieces. 
Glue the pieces together so as to form one piece. Place paper 




Fig. 191. 

on face-plate before glueing, to prevent glueing to plate. Saw 



MANUAL TRAINING 



out hubs to glue on at the center of arms. The pieces will 
appear as in Fig. 191. With the compasses, next lay out a 
pattern for the segments of the rim of the pulley as shown in 
Fig. 192. Place these pieces on the face-plate in the manner 




Fig. 192. 



shown in Fig. 193. The segments must be fitted over the arms 
and ends joined on the arms. Glue ends together and to the 




H 



±r 



Fig. 193. 

arms. Clamp together with a dog and small hand screw until 
dry. Place the piece on the lathe spindle and with the square 
edge scraping tool face off the rim until true, when it is 
ready for the next course or layer to be glued on. Dress one 



MANUAL TRAINING 



113 



side of the pieces to be glued on. Dress the ends smoothly and 
glue on first piece with its center directly over one of the 
joints in the first course. Clamp down firmly with two small 
hand screws. Fit ends of the next piece so as to rest evenly 
around the rim ; glue and clamp the ends together with a dog, 
and clamp down piece with hand screws as before. Continue 
this course around until the circle is complete, and the piece 
will appear as shown in Fig. 194. When the glue is dry rc- 




Fig. 194.. 

move the clamps. Place the piece on the lathe spindle and 
turn the rim and hub of this half of the pattern. The other 
half may be constructed in the same manner after the first 
has been turned and removed from the face-plate. The arms 
of the ])ulley may next be marked out on one-half of the pattern 
and cut to the line with the chisel and gouge, after which the 
two must be doweled together with pins through two of the 
pulley arms and the ^second half of pattern dressed to the same 
form as the first. Then round the arms to an elliptical form as 
shown in Fig. 189. Sandpaper and varnish the pattern and 
it will be ready to receive the core prints. The core prints. 



114 



MANUAL TRAINING 



I inch in diameter and i inch in height, are to be doweled 
on at the center of the hub on outside end of each half of the 
hub. They should be exactly at the center where the opening for 
the shaft is to be in the hub of the pulley. When the core i)rints 
are in place the pattern is complete. A sectional view of the 
hub and core ])rints is shown in Fig. 195. The dotted lines 




Fig. 195. 



through the hub show the size of the opening to be cored 
through the hub. The core box to form the core must next be 
constructed. The core box must be made to mould a core one 
inch in diameter and of a length to correspond with the length 
of the hub, with the height of core prints added. This would 
be: hub 3 inches and the height of prints each one inch, making 
the total length of core box 5 inches. The core box should 
be made by doweling together two pieces each 4 inches in 
length, laying out the inside of core box on the ends and gaug- 
ing lines on the inside surfaces. Take the two pieces apart 
and work out insides to the lines with the Yi inch paring gouge 
and afterward smooth with sand paper on a mandrel to one 
inch in diameter. Next dress a piece one inch in thickness and 
6 inches long and 15/2 inches in width. Cut the piece into two 
parts and place the dressed edges together. Lay out the shape 
of the tapered core print, and work out with the gouge and 



MANUAL TRAINING 



115 



sandpaper inside surfaces. Fasten these pieces to one end of 
core box with nails and g"lue. Sand paper the ends and varnish 



1 ! 


'■^. '^ 


[J 



Fig. 196. 



and finish inside and ends. The core box is now com]:)lete and 
will appear as shown in Fig. 196. 



EXERCISE NO. 9. 



Exercise No. 9 is a pattern for a small sheave or pullev 
to carry a rope or cable and is shown in Fig-. 197. This pat- 
tern must be made in two parts, the same as the one in Exer- 




Fi.tT. 197. 

cise No. 8. However, it must be moulded in a different man- 
ner. The pattern must be formed on the lathe. First saw out 



Ii6 MANUAL TRAINING 

on the band saw two disks each 6j4 inches in diameter and 
^ inch in thickness. With one side dressed smooth, place 
each on the lathe and turn to the prescribed form with the 
round-nose and square edge scraping- tools. Smooth with sand 
paper and finish with varnish. Remove from the lathe and 
dowel the two pieces together. Lay out the four one inch 
openings to be cut through the web of the sheave and work 
out separately with the auger bit and gouge. Sandpaper 
with the paper on a tapered mandrel to give the openings a 
draft toward the parting line of the pattern. Varnish and finish 
inside of openings. Place core prints on the hub in the same 
manner as in the preceding exercise and the pattern is finished. 
The core box is to be made in the same manner as in Exer- 
cise No. 8, the length over all to be T,}i inches. The grain 
or fiber of the wood should run across and not lengthwise of 
the core box. When the core box has been varnished and 
finished on the inside and ends the work is complete. 



MANUAL TRAINING 



117 



EXERCISE NO. lO. 

Exercise No. 10, shown in Fig. 198, is a screw for a wonn 
gear. This pattern is a rather difficult one for a student to 
attempt to make, but with care and perseverance the work 



—I 





Fig. 198. 

may be done and wlien completed successfully the student 
will be capable of doing almost any job of pattern making 
that may be assigned him. Hcgin the pattern by dressing on 
one side a piece which is 2^ inches by S^A inches by 20 
inches. Cut die piece into two parts and place together the 
planed surfaces. Fasten at the ends with screws; place dowel 
pins in the piece a distance of 6 inches apart; place in the 
lathe and turn to a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. When this 
has been done the piece will appear as shown in Fig. 199. 
Lay out and turn to the dimensions indicated by the dotted 
lines. Varnish this cylinder yellow for the reason that the 



ii8 



MANUAL TRAINING 



varnish hardens the surface and the fine hnes to be marked 
may be made and worked more accurately. Saw off at the 
(rnds of core prints and dress the ends. Part the pattern and 



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Fig. 199. 



lay out the screw in sections as shown in Fig. 200. The lay- 
ing out of tlie lines may be done more easily by first making 
a templet to the form of a section of the tooth or thread and 




Fig. 200. 
marking to the form of the templet on the inside surfaces. 
First it is necessary to square lines across to give the position 



MANUAL TRAINING 119 

of threafi on each edge of surface. Place the templet in 
position between the lines drawn, and scribe around it. When 
the lines have been formed on the inside surfaces, one to 
correspond with the other, a flexible rule may be sprung 
around the outer surfaces to guide the marker in laying out the 
lines on the convex surface of each half of the pattern. An 
adjustable blade back saw is a very convenient tool for cutting 
to the proper depth between the threads. This saw being- 
adjustable may be set to saw to the depth desired and cannot 
cut deeper. By following around the convex surface near the 
line of the thread and cutting to the required depth, the por- 
tion to be cut away may be easily removed with a narrow par- 
ing chisel. A templet of the form required between the threads 
must be made and the portion not yet cut away must be re- 
moved with the paring chisel, paring toward the center line 
of the pattern, testing the correctness of the work with the 
templet. When the cutting away is finished, sandpaper the 
pared surfaces and varnish the body of the pattern black leav- 
ing the core prints yellow. With the varnish properly 
smoothed, the pattern is finished. 

The core required for this pattern is i^ inches in diam- 
eter and 8 inches in length. This core may be more conven- 
ient! v made bv a half core box as shown in Fig. 201. After 



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Fig. 201. 

the core maker forms the cores in the half box the halves 
are joined together to form a whole. 

The exercises given in the foregoing pages are deemed 
sufticient, if properly performed, to train the student in this 
line of work and to enable him to take part in the construction 
of the various parts of any machine which may be under con- 
struction in the pattern shop. It is the usual policy to allow 



120 MANUAL TRAINING 

each class in shop i)ractice to construct the patterns, mould, cast 
and erect in the machine shop some machine. When this plan 
is followed it is impossihle to outline a course beyond this 
point It is, however, deemed sufficient, and in case the stu- 
dent shows aptness in the work he should be all wed to dis- 
continue the regular course and beg-in on machine construction. 
When this work is begun, personal instruction will be neces- 
sary. 



SEP 20 1902 

IGOPY DEL. TOCAT.OIV. 
SEP. 22 1902 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 966 834 • 



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